Previous to the year 1685 the Latins were in undisturbed occupation, and enjoyed the exclusive right to perform every act of devotion within its walls. This title having been called in question by the Greeks, it was followed by the most disgraceful scenes of disorder, and even by acts of personal violence, which were inflicted on the Latins, who justified their claim to priority.

In consequence of this the French government interfered, and made a remonstrance to the Grand Seignior, whose protection was required in behalf of the Latins, and they were allowed to remain unmolested in possession of the church. This was, however, found to be only a time for breathing, it being of short duration, for the invasion of their privileges, was renewed by the Greeks, and has most unfortunately continued down to the present moment. These animosities have been of so violent a nature, that the Latins informed me, with tears in their eyes, that a short time previous to my visit, a Greek had the audacity to chastise one of their number in facie Ecclesiæ. They related various outrageous acts committed by the Greeks, and implored me to lay their grievances before his Excellency the British Ambassador at Constantinople, in whom they reposed more than an ordinary degree of confidence. Many representations had been formerly made by the ambassadors of Britain, France, and Spain on this subject; but instead of being attended to, a profound silence was observed by the Turkish government. This will not appear surprising, when it is considered that the Latins are in a state of poverty, and unable to satisfy the rapacity of the Turkish demands; whereas, on the contrary, the Greeks are in opulent circumstances, which enable them to pay enormous sums to that government, and hence a peculiar interest is secured to them.

It may be observed, however, that the Latin order have the exclusive privilege of performing mass with shut doors, and meet with no interruption, until seven o'clock in the morning, when they are thrown open to all religious sects. On every occasion I remarked there was, on the one hand,

N 2

a strong partiality shown to the Greeks; and on the other, a marked hatred directed against the Latins, and the slightest trifle laid hold of on the part of the Turkish rulers, to irritate and wound the feelings of the latter. One fact came, indeed, directly within my own personal knowledge: the Pacha of Damascus, who had arrived on a visit to the governor of Jerusalem, in riding along the streets happened to pass the Latin convent; when, pretending to take offence at a small door which had from time immemorial been used as a private entry, he ordered it instantly to be built up. This unprovoked act occasioned the Latins, who appear to be an inoffensive class of men, inexpressible concern. They are constantly kept in a state of agitation and alarm, from the insults received in one shape or other, not only from their enemies the Greeks and Turks, but the rigorous exactions which are required of them from time to time by the Mahomedans. On the representations made to me by the Latins I shall only observe, in the language of him who was king over Israel, in this capital I beheld the tears of such as were oppressed, and on the side of their oppressors there was power.* Such, in short, is the bitter enmity of the latter, against the Christians in this place, that in the event of any rupture between Turkey and Great Britain, this church would be erased to the foundation. I am firmly persuaded it is chiefly owing to the apprehensions of any attack from England, and knowing the interest the British ambassador takes in the Christians, that the preservation of the ancient relics is principally to be attributed.

But to return from this digression, I would observe, that no person who has studied the Gospel with the slightest attention can enter the threshold of this sanctuary, without his soul being wrapt up in holy awe, and feeling deeply affected at the extent of that guilt of man, which nothing could atone for, but the sacrifice of the Son of God.

I was conducted to an upper cell, where I reposed for

* Eccles. iv. 1.

the night in my clothes, on a frame of wood, intended as a bed. Next morning, at three o'clock, I was roused to attend the matins, and accompanied the friars in procession to the chapel, which is built over the sepulchre, in the centre of this edifice. The friars followed each other in slow procession, holding up massy lighted wax candles, and singing in an affecting strain, which, being accompanied by the deep and solemn sounds of the organ, added to the consideration, that here was the sacred spot of earth where he who was the author of our faith, bore our sins in his own body on the tree, contributed to elevate and fill the soul with sentiments of inexpressible awe. After kneeling down and participating in the worship, where I admit that in the feelings of that moment, all idea of religious differences was lost, I was prompted to exclaim in the words of the Psalmist, in the courts of the Lord's house, in the midst of thee, O Jerusalem, praise be to the Lord. A sketch of the interior of the church, with the procession to the sepulchre, is given in the plate in the frontispiece. I accompanied the Latins, in the same order, back to their cells, where coffee was served, and I remained till daylight to examine the church.

The descriptions which have been given of this sacred edifice, by travellers, are so numerous that it is almost unnecessary to mention any thing respecting it.

The church founded cn Mount Calvary is about one hundred paces in length, and sixty in width, and in order to prepare the mount or hill for its reception, it was found necessary to cut away portions, and raise it in others. In this operation care was taken that that part of the mount where the accursed tree had stood, on which the crucifixion took place, should not be touched; so that, it will be observed, this spot is considerably higher than the floor of the church, to which there is access by twentyone steps. This sacred spot is from twenty to thirty yards square, and is gaudily ornamented; there is an altar with lamps always burning before it. The tomb itself,

* Psalm cxvi. 19.