distant, and under the city of Jerusalem, and is emptied here into a sort of basin inclosed by a wall. I went under the porch from which it issues into this reservoir, but unfortunately did not examine whether it was a natural cavern or an aqueduct formed for the supply of the ancient city. At a short distance from, and over against this pool is the "Mountain of Offence," as it is termed, where Solomon committed acts of idolatry, by offering sacrifices to the gods of the Moabites and other nations with his strange wives and concubines.* Near the foot of it, the field of blood is shown, where the traitor Judas hanged himself+; and beyond it I was conducted to two massy pieces of antiquity, one of which is named the tomb of Zachariah and Absalom, formed in an extraordinary manner out of the natural rock, about eighteen feet in height, and ornamented with semi-columns of architecture, after the Doric order, hewn in the same entire stone, supporting a cornice, over which rises a pyramidal roof. The latter, since Absalom was not supposed to be buried in the valley, is conjectured to have been formed during the life-time of that prince. This is a stately edifice, constructed with great strength; it is of a square form, adorned with Doric pilasters on its sides and corners; but the superstructure is soon varied, and it terminates in a building not unlike the figure of a bell. Such was the antipathy of the Jews to this monument, that I was told it was their practice in passing to throw stones against it, as a mark of their reprobation of the unnatural rebellion of Absalom against his father. Near it is the sepulchre of Jehoshaphat, which gives the name to this valley. It was melancholy to observe the porch or entrance of one of these tombs choaked up with earth. A space, indeed, has been formed by removing part of it, but this is barely sufficient for a person to get into the interior even in a horizontal mode, which is also filled with rubbish. Although many proposals have been made by English travellers to the governor of Jerusalem to clear away the dirt, Matt. xxvii. 5. Acts i. 18, 19. 1 Kings xi. 7, 8. and restore the entrance and interior to its original form, yet this, as well as many other improvements, have been strangely resisted by the Turks. The fact is, that suspicion uniformly attaches to any scheme suggested with this view to the Mahomedans, especially when proceeding from an Englishman. Indeed, if he takes a spade or other implement in his hand, and attempts to throw up the earth, or remove the rubbish from any building; should he scrape the ground with his walking stick, with a view only of making a discovery, he is instantly surrounded by them; they view him as a robber, and suppose there are treasures under ground, which are sure to be discovered when he makes excavations. It may most likely be in the recollection of some of my readers who have visited Rome, that many of the antiquities there, especially the solitary columns and a triumphal arch at the back of the Capitol, which had remained long almost totally buried in the rubbish, and was not attempted to be removed by the Roman government, was displaced by the French, when in possession of the city. These precious remains have been restored to their original length from base to summit. * It must appear an extraordinary idea which is entertained both by some of the Jews and even by a few Christians, that it is in the valley of Jehoshaphat that the general judgment is to take place; this opinion they found on the words of Holy Writ. The place, however, is so very small in compass, that it is difficult to imagine how it could possibly contain all the nations of the earth. I apprehend the allusion to such a valley is to be taken in a figurative sense; for unless it be understood in this point of view, it has no propriety. Considered as an appellative it has no doubt peculiar force, since the prophet, addressing himself to the Jews, thought it proper to bring before that people a situation the most striking for gathering together such an assemblage. In this valley there is a burying place belonging to the Hebrew population of Jerusalem, containing a number of grave-stones, where those who reside in Jerusalem are in the practice of going in procession at a particular period, to observe a religious festival in memory of the dead. There still exists a strong inclination on the part of this people to have their bodies entombed in the country of their ancestors. In conclusion, I lament that I have not the pen of a ready writer, sufficiently to describe this interesting excursion, which occupied most part of the day. During the whole of it my feelings were held in a state of high excitement. I quitted the valley, having suffered from fatigue, and returned to the city by the gate that leads to Bethlehem. On entering it I encountered an Arab, who spoke the Italian language tolerably correct, and enquired for Sir Sidney Smith, who appears to have obtained a high fame throughout the country. He made a triumphal entry into Jerusalem, accompanied by several British seamen; and upon its walls planted the British flag. In this excursion, for the convenience of walking, I had thrown off the Turkish dress, and resumed that of the English; but, under the walls of the city, and singular enough, near the very spot where the martyr Stephen was stoned, I found the stones flying about my ears*, and was obliged to make all possible speed to the convent. On mentioning this circumstance to the friars, I was advised not to attempt a second time to perambulate in this costume, but to wear the oriental one; as protection from insult could not be so properly afforded in any other, and the Turks had a deadly hatred of the dress of the European. I accordingly followed their advice, and afterwards profited by it. However disguised a Christian may attempt to appear in the eastern vestment, he is soon recognised by the Mahomedans. They, however, seem to consider it as a sort of compliment to imitate their dress and conform to their usages; and these always insure a certain degree of protection to Christians. On the 3d of February the thermometer stood here at 54. CHAP. XIV. REFLECTIONS ON THE ACCURACY OF BIBLICAL DESCRIPTIONS. MATERIALS EMPLOYED IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF BUILD PROVISIONS. -PRICES. MONEY. THE EAR OF A TURK NAILED TO THE DOOR OF INGS. JERUSALEM. HIS SHOP.- DRESS OF WOMEN. GOVERNOR'S WIVES. ANECDOTES RELATED BY AN ITALIAN QUACK. CEDRON. -- BROOK FOG. PALACE OF PONTIUS PILATE. DOLOROUS WAY. WHERE JESUS WAS SCOURGED.-POOL OF BETHSAIDA. OTHER SACRED PLACES. ARMENIAN CHURCH. MOUNT SION. OBSERVATIONS. OWING to the excessive wetness of this day, the 3d of February, I was obliged to remain in the Franciscan convent. I was occupied in consulting the sacred volume respecting those places which I had visited, and in comparing the statements and descriptions contained in it, with the notes and memoranda that I had prepared, as guides in my enquiries and researches. After having "run to and fro', through the streets of Jerusalem," I may observe, on the general style of the buildings, that every where traces of the fidelity and truth of scriptural representations fell under my observation. The Christians reside in a particular quarter of the city, called Harat-El-Nasara. The houses are low, flat in the roof, and have few or no windows to the front; most of them open backwards. These look into a court, in the form of a quadrangle. The building is encircled by a cloister, with galleries round it, which are sometimes faced with latticed-work. Fountains are con * Jeremiah v. 1. The word Harat signifies Street. structed in the centre, and fruit-trees generally adorn this court, which throw out a delicious perfume. It is conjectured that our Lord preferred such courts, as favourite situations for proclaiming his power and Divinity. This was probably the case at the time when the helpless individual, afflicted with palsy, was let down and stretched out before him, with the view of obtaining relief *; and on various other remarkable occasions. The doors of the houses are remarkably low and narrow, and admission can only be had by stooping. This is particularly the case in the entrances of the convents; they may properly be denominated wicket-gates. This arises, in all probability, from an extreme jealousy on the part of the Christians, that if they were large, the possession might be invaded with greater facility by the Mahomedans, who would ride into the courts, plunder the house, and commit every kind of outrage. When a knock is heard at the gates the greatest caution is observed in opening them. This mode of building appears singularly to correspond with the observation of Solomon, respecting the danger to be apprehended by forming gateways too great in height. † Some of these are made of brass and iron, and others of heavy wood, strengthened by enormous nails, and massy bars of iron. It is probably to such gates the Psalmist refers. § We further find they are alluded to, when the angel of the Lord liberated Peter from his captivity. || The massive gates of this city are regularly shut every evening, to insure tranquillity, at the going down of the sun, and opened in the morning at sun-rise, which evidently has been an ancient practice. ¶ One of these, called the Golden Port, fronts the Mount of Olives; and it is said that our Lord entered in triumph through it to the city. It is, however, now closed. Many of the keys of the doors are formed in a singular manner. These are made of wood, about a foot in length and half an inch in * Luke v. 18, 19. § Psalm cvii. 16. + Prov. xvii. 19 1 Kings iv. 13. ¶ Nehemiah vii. 3. |