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also referred to by another of the prophets. They are further used for the operations of washing and drying clothes, and in hot weather are preferred to all other situations, as cool and comfortable to repose on during the night, when beds are laid down. In many of the convents indeed, the monks, who are much exposed to insult from the Mahomedans, have no inclination to walk about the streets, but are perfectly contented with taking exercise on the terraces, where they are not only more retired and independent, but can see every object passing along the streets; and such an elevation affords an enjoyment of the finest prospect of the surrounding country.

The ground of these terraces I observed to be a kind of plaster. It appears to be a composition of sand, with lime and gravel formed into a hard substance, and after rain has fallen, is smoothed over with a rolling stone, to give it greater firmness and stability. There are three churches, and the same number of mosques, and also baths.

I accompanied the Consul about a mile to the south of the town; he pointed out the fatal spot, among hills of sand, on the sea shore, where several thousand Turkish soldiers who had retired to Jaffa on their parole, after the surrender of El-Arisch, were drawn out and horribly butchered by the savage and disgraceful commands of Buonaparte, in violation of all honour and faith. The authenticity of this fact has been called in question; but there are persons now living at Jaffa who were witnesses of it. A vast number of the dead bodies having been washed into the sea, no fish were eaten for upwards of three months by the inhabitants of Jaffa, under an idea that they had fed upon the carcasses. It may also be added, that crowds of voracious jackalls, which infest so much this country, and sally forth during the night-time in pursuit of prey, were absolutely gorged with those which had remained about the place. A Turkish monument to the memory of some particular person is erected upon an

*Isaiah, xxii. 1.

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elevation near the place, which will direct the steps of future travellers to that modern Golgotha, or scene of crime. This tragical event, which never will be forgiven, or blotted out of the memory of the Turks or their posterity, stamps an indelible stain on the character of Napoleon. He had there impiously proclaimed, that on acquiring possession of Jerusalem, the first act he should exercise was to plant the tree of liberty upon Mount Calvary, where the Redeemer of the world had suffered on the cross.

The Consul procured passports from the Pacha to enable me to proceed to Jerusalem, a precaution which I was told to be indispensable. The pious friars having written to the Superior, or head of the convent at Ramah, to send down mules to Joppa, agreeably to a benevolent practice observed by them towards travellers, to convey me, with my servant and baggage thither, I prepared for my departure, and presented a piece of money to the Superior, for the use of the convent, in return for the hospitality I had experienced. Although the friars, from a principle of religion, are understood to entertain pilgrims without demanding any thing in return by way of compensation, or strictly as a matter of right; yet no traveller of respectability thinks of receiving entertainment and accommodation gratuitously: and when he offers a remuneration, it is not avowedly on this account, but under the delicate idea of a compliment to the poor, as it is termed, and which, it may be credited, never meets with any refusal on the part of the friars.

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VIEWS OF THE COUNTRY. FINE CONVENT.-DESCRIPTION OF RAMAH. JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM.

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LEY OF JEREMIAH AND ELAH. SPOT WHERE DAVID SLEW GOLIATH. IMPRESSION ON THE FIRST VIEW OF THE HOLY CITY. - ARRIVAL AT THE CONVENT OF FRANCISCANS.

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WHEN the friars had embraced, and given us their benediction, we left Joppa on the 29th of January, at one o'clock in the afternoon, still assuming the Oriental costume, and "setting our faces towards Jerusalem."

As there were no carriages in the country under any denomination, we travelled on mules, which have no saddles or stirrups. The Arabs lay thick cloths, and sometimes their jackets across them, secured by strings under the belly.* I had fire-arms properly charged, and put in large sacks or bags our beds, provisions†, and culinary articles; and also carrying water in utensils, extended or inflated like bladders, resembling a bottle; customs which may be traced to a very remote period.‡

These utensils are made of skins, chiefly of a red colour§; the mouths of them are closed by slips of wood, that they may contain milk and other liquids. The natives often drink from these without pouring out what they hold, into any vessel. Such leathern bottles preserve their contents from dust, and prevent vermin from penetrating them. They are of a dark colour, and hang up exposed to the volume of smoke which always envelopes the hut of the Arab. They are alluded to in Scripture ||, where we find they formed part of the articles which the children

*Matt. xxi. 7.

+ Genesis xliv. 1, 2, 3.

† Joshua ix. 11.
Exod. xxv. 5. Joshua ix. 4.
Psalm cxix. 83.

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of Israel had occasion to use in their journey through the wilderness.* These bottles are so strong, that they may be constantly used for a long period; and when they wear out, they are carefully patched and sewed up.+ We find, indeed, that of such materials the raiment of our first parents was formed ‡; and clothed in this manner were many of those saints who wandered about. §

Our journey to Ramah, the ancient Arimathea, would have been pleasant, had not such heavy rains fallen, that we were completely drenched. On departing from Joppa, we rode along a narrow winding path, inclosed with a kind of wall, formed by the cumbrous shrub of the prickly pear, which affords one of the most firm and secure fences imaginable. We then travelled for some time across the plain of Sharon, where flocks were grazing¶; and in passing a village observed several Turks engaged in the operation of spinning cotton, and others employed in making baskets. In the course of this ride, I beheld one of the most glorious objects in nature, the bow of the Almighty**, to the left, over the village of Lydda ++; this is about three miles from Ramah. Here St. Peter preached and performed a miracle‡‡. From hence he was summoned to Joppa, to accomplish a similar one, as formerly mentioned, on the person of Tabitha. The ashes of St. George, the tutelar saint of England, repose in a tomb erected at Lydda.

It will be observed, that Ramah, in this direction, is not the place, as supposed by many, where the tyranny and cruelty of Herod was exercised, that event having occurred at a village near Bethlehem, of which I shall afterwards have occasion to speak. The present place is about twelve miles from Joppa, and is very pleasantly situated on an eminence, in the middle of a plain, stretching north and south; there are several remains of ancient edifices. The Latin convent is a handsome substantial fabric, clean, with a qua

* Levit. xi. 32.
§ Heb. xi. 37.

Isaiah lxv. 10.

+ Joshua ix. 4.
Hosea ii. 6.

** Genesis ix. 13.
‡‡ Acts ix. 33, 34, 35.

+ Genesis iii. 21. Prov. xv. 19.

++ Acts ix. 38.

drangular court in the inside, and capable of containing a number of monks; but it was then only inhabited by three. Buonaparte resided here, and the chapel was appropriated for his sick soldiers. Here I took up my abode, and was kindly received by the Superior, a Spaniard by birth, and of a most dignified appearance; he was remarkably active, and well-informed. I presented to him the patent letter I obtained at Rome, which accomplished all that I desired. Independent of this, I could easily perceive that the name of Briton was a sufficient recommendation to ensure every civility in these religious establishments.

This convent is supposed to be founded on the spot where the habitation of Nicodemus stood, and is called by that name. The sacred volume informs us that a remarkable conference was held by our Lord with Nicodemus, on the necessity of regeneration, without which salvation cannot be expected. * The place is also held in high veneration, from being that of Joseph's nativity, who exercised the last offices of affection and fidelity in depositing the body of our Lord in his own sepulchre +.

Ramah and Lydda were the two first places of the Holy Land which fell into the hands of the Crusaders. During these times it was a general rendezvous of the Christain warriors. The Bishop of Normandy publicly offered up thanks here to St. George the Martyr, for the army, under whose auspices it was credulously conceived the Crusades had hitherto been conducted. The gross idolatry and folly of this prayer shows how the shades of superstition were thickening at that early period; and how extremely low the state of religion must have been among these professed champions of the Cross. These things vindicate the wisdom and justice of God in permitting the success of the followers of the false prophet.

On the evening of my arrival, by having accidentally stood over a pan of lighted charcoal, in the middle of the cell which the friars had prepared for me, in consequence my clothes being wet, I was seized with a most excru

of

* John iii. 5.

+ Matt. xxvii. 57, 58. 60.

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