Emperial Magazine; OR, COMPENDIUM OF RELIGIOUS, MORAL, & PHILOSOPHICAL KNOWLEDGE. 66 THE VALUE OF A BOOK IS TO BE ESTIMATED BY ITS USE." JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO THE (Continued from col. 598.) Thursday, July 14th.-Stornaway is situated at the head of an extensive loch, or harbour, whose entrance is narrowed by two flat points of land, which jut out like artificial piers. The inclosed basin is extremely capacious; and an inner harbour is formed by a sudden turn round a low peninsula, on which the town is situated. This place may be considered as the chief town of the Hebrides; some of the houses are well built, and a fine beach extends before it. Across the inner harbour, Lord Seaforth has a scat, plain and neat in its appearance, but wholly destitute of wood, a defect for which no other advantage can compensate. Lewis, with Harris, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra, form, all together, what is generally termed the Long Island; the divisions between each being only by strands, or shallow channels. Of the first of these, the northern part appears low, brown with heath, and barren, excepting the district immediately surrounding the town; which, by the prudent and liberal mode of farming it out, adopted by Seaforth, who is the proprietor of the whole, is in as high a state of cultivation as any which we had seen in the Hebrides. His method is, to parcel his land out in small quantities, and to grant leases of seven years to his tenants, rent-free. At the expiration of the term, these small patches are consolidated into proper-sized inclosures; fresh portions of the uncultivated heath are then allotted to each, on the same terms; and the tenant feels no difficulty in removing his fragile habitation to his new lands. This process of improvement is certainly slow, but it is, however, liberal and effectual; and must, in the end, yield considerable advantage to the proprietor. There is a peculiarity in these cotNo. 8.-VOL. I. tages, or rather in their covering, which I had no where else observed. The straw, instead of being regularly laid on as a thatch, is spread loosely over the roof; and as there is no aperture reserved for the exit of the smoke, it of course diffuses itself throughout the whole, exhibiting the appearance of a huge smoking dunghill. The straw, rotten with the rain, and combined and impregnated with the soot and smoke of their peat fires, must doubtless form excellent manure; but considered as a covering to defend them from the pelting of the pitiless storm," must be miserable indeed. A The same line of conduct if pursued, must in process of time change the appearance of this dreary scene; but improvement must be slow, where greater difficulties are to be encountered than those which arise from barren heaths and deep morasses. people long accustomed to the hardships of indigence, become so familiarized to them, as scarcely to have a wish to better or change their state; and to promote industry, even for their own benefit, is a difficulty not easily overcome. Habituated, under their former feudal state, to a life of indolence, which was only interrupted by sudden excursions and petty broils, they looked up to the chieftain whom they followed, for support; and were content to endure the effects of hunger and want occasionally, rather than exert themselves in the cultivation of their lands. Nature had, indeed, in this respect offered them few temptations,- -a rocky mountain, or a marshy plain, a cold, tempestuous, and wet climate, appeared as insurmountable barriers, which they felt more inclined to endure than to attempt to overcome. A pastoral life, however, was yet open to them, and this, as in most other countries where an unsettled government exists, became with war their only occupation; hence that careless improvidence, which in some parts is still too evident. Habits of indolence descending by example from father to 2Y Monday, 18th.-With a fair though strong wind, we stood across for Loch Broom, in Ross-shire, and about ten made the entrance, near which lies a confused group of rocky isles, called the Summer Isles, probably, in the earlier state of navigation, from their difficulty of access, except in that season. son, with their worst consequences | night's station, which however yield a apparent, yet despised, are difficult to variety of harbours and safe anchorbe overcome; and it will be long, with- ing places; and here we remained for out great exertions of the proprietors, the night. ere they can be totally eradicated. Emigration became a natural consequence of the change of their ancient system; they listened with avidity to the artful tales of interested persons, and breaking through the strongest partiality to their native land, flew to a distant clime, where the necessity of toil, they were taught to believe, would be entirely superseded by the exube- The mountains, which on the prerance of spontaneous fertility. ceding day had given us so much Lewis, with all its apparent barren-pleasure in a distant view, had on our ness, breeds a considerable quantity nearer approach greatly changed their of black cattle. Of this, we had a aspect; they were now black and specimen; it being now fair time, and gloomy from the shade of impending the beach crowded with droves that were clouds, or faintly seen through the meabout to be shipped off for the main dium of a misty rain, which magnified land. The state of improvement in their rugged forms to a degree of imwhich this place has been of late years, posing grandeur. After standing up may be seen in the statistical account the lower part of the loch, we came of Scotland. Having remained here to an anchor at the back of Isle Marthree days, and experienced the great- tin, in a beautiful and safe basin, est kindness and attention from some screened and surrounded on every of the inhabitants, we weighed anchor side by lofty hills and towering rocks; about ten o'clock in the morning. whose perpendicular and shattered Sunday, 17th.-When we had clear-cliffs seemed wholly inaccessible. ed the entrance to the harbour, the distant hills of Ross-shire and Sutherland, formed a pleasing prospect; their high summits being variously broken and combined, and tinted with the fine aerial blue. On our right appeared the rugged coast of Lewis, sweeping into rocky and barren inlets, or shoot-high ing out into bold headlands. The fine breeze which carried us out, soon died away to a perfect calm, and left us to the mercy of the swell of the sea, which drove us pretty rapidly towards the rocky coast, that now from its great height appeared but at a small distance under our lee. With some difficulty, by the assistance of our boat, we found means to keep clear of the shore; and after being twice compelled to come to an anchor, we at length got a steady breeze, with which we immediately put to sea. It had been our first intention to proceed to the southward, which, with the continually veering wind, had been changed to Loch Broom, an opening on the opposite shore; but the evening now appearing wet and wild, it was deemed most proper to come to an anchor among the Birken Isles. These are an assemblage of rocks, about ten Here, after breakfast, we landed, and with some difficulty proceeded on foot to Ulapool, over a mountainous and rugged road. This town, which has likewise been lately established by the Highland Society, is well situated on a natural bank, with a fine beach in its front, and commands a very pleasing view up the loch. The mountains on either side are steep and grand, and some of them are well wooded. This place is well situated for the fishing trade, and will probably, in the course of years, become of conse quence: the first steps to improvement are slow and gradual, and seldom indeed are we to look for rapidity in the outset of schemes, however beneficial they may be to the community. In the present instance, about forty houses have been erected on a regular plan, and convenient construction, in about eight years; besides a considerable number of cottages, which are a kind of non-conformists to the general design. So many advantages indeed combine in this place, that it may appear strange to an inhabitant of the southern part of this island, that its progress has not been more acceleratmiles to the southward of our lasted; but a great variety of causes are continually operating against the most salutary measures, and perhaps another generation must pass away, ere the generality of the natives of the Highlands will perceive and follow their true interests. Among the local advantages of this place, we may reckon cheapness of provisions, mountains well stored with game, and a bay abounding with fish of almost every description. Nor is there, perhaps, a situation better adapted for a summer retreat, to those who are fond of the rural amusements of fishing or shooting. We dined with Mr. Melvil of this place, who, in a small specimen of the productions of the country, gave us a treat that the most luxurious might have enjoyed. In the evening we were rowed down the loch, and met our vessel about two miles below the town; where, not having wind sufficient to carry her on, we were compelled to remain for the night. Tuesday, 19th.-It had been our intention this morning, to have made an excursion into the interior of the country, but our design was frustrated by the wetness of the weather, which confined us aboard for the greater part of the day. Towards the evening, however, it cleared up, and we were enabled to take a walk to an eminence which commands a view of the whole loch. The upper reach, wound among hills of pleasing forms, whose bases were fringed with a border of cultivation, and a fine valley extended above the head of the lake. In the contrary view, the town seemed situated on a comparatively low spot of land, which shot out nearly half across the loch, and formed the harbour, where several vessels lay at anchor; beyond this the Summer Isles appeared, and closed the distance, finely enlightened by the setting sun; while on the bosom of the lake, which appeared tranquil, calm, and still, a number of boats were pleasingly grouped in various parts, commencing their evening's employment of fishing with lines and nets. Perhaps no sensations are more pleasing than those which are excited by scenes like this. The tranquillity of nature, the grandeur of surrounding scenes, with the stillness of solitude, scarcely interrupted by distant voices on the lake, are circumstances so impressive on the mind, so calculated to give a proper bias to reflection, that not to feel it must be apathy, not to dwell on the remembrance of it, a want of that power of the mind, which can harmonize the heart with the recollection of past emotions. Wednesday, 20th.-Left Ulapool in the morning, and came-to, in a fine bay in Tournaray, one of the Summer Isles, were we remained for the day. Mr. Macdonald, who resides here, accompanied us to the top of the highest eminence in the island, from whence we had an extensive view of the loch and surrounding country. The remaining isles, which compose this group, were scattered on every side; and from this station we could count seventeen, in general of the most rugged and barren appearance; some of them composed of pointed rocks, which afforded shelter to nothing but seals, some of which we could observe among them. The island on which we were, appeared evidently the best; yet the yearly rent, excepting about 12 acres, was only eight pounds, notwithstanding the extent might be a mile and a half in length, and half a mile in breadth: the comparative value of the generality of the others, must of course be little indeed. On the side of Coygach, a district of Roth-shire, we had a view of Benmore, with some other mountains of considerable elevation and abrupt forms, their sides appearing nearly perpendicular, and sinking all around them in comparison to mere hillocks. Thursday, 21st.-We left Tournaray by seven in the morning, with a fine breeze, and soon completed our circumnavigation of the Summer Isles, which appeared opening successively in the most wild and rugged forms. A fine group of hills overtopped these, and extended with the most pleasing variety from Asynt point to the Ru Rea, their summits towering to the clouds, and their steep sides overspread with the blue haze of morning. Being now at but an inconsiderable distance from Cape Wrath, the northern extremity of Scotland, we turned our course to the southward, and soon opened the entrance of the lesser Loch Broom, which appeared to wind in a pleasing manner among the hills. Next succeeded Lock Ewe, adorned continually operating against the most are circumstances w mon Among the local advantages of this place, we may reckon cheapness of provisions, mountains well stored with game, and a bay abounding with fish of almost every description. Nor is there, perhaps, a situation better adapted for a summer retreat, to those who are fond of the rural amusements of fishing or shooting. Wednesday, Dich--Let 'lapool an the morning, and cane-, in a fine bay in Tournaray, one of the Summer Isles, were we remained for the day Mr. Macdonald, who rendes here, a companied us to the top of the hughest we had an extensive view of the loca eminence in the island, from whence and surrounding country. The m maining isles, which compone th group, were scattered on every sude In the evening we were rowed down seventeen, in general of the most rapand from this station we could the loch, and met our vessel about ged and barren appearance we of two miles below the town; where, not them composed of potted rocks having wind sufficient to carry her on, which afforded shelter to nothing but we were compelled to remain for the seals, some of which we cold or night. among them. We dined with Mr. Melvil of this place, who, in a small specimen of the productions of the country, gave us a treat that the most luxurious might have enjoyed. Tuesday, 19th.-It had been our in- The island on which we were p tention this morning, to have made an peared evidently the best vet de excursion into the interior of the coun-yearly rent, excepting about 13 a try, but our design was frustrated by was only eight pounds, whod the wetness of the weather, which con- ing the extent might be a m fined us aboard for the greater part of half in length, and half the day. Towards the evening, how-breadth: the comparative value ever, it cleared up, and we were en- the generality of the others, abled to take a walk to an eminence course be little indend which commands a view of the whole On the side of Coach d loch 小 The of Roth-shire, we had a view of upper reach, wound among hills more, with some other m of pleasing forms, whose bases were considerable elevatn ang head of the lake, In the contrary view, the town seem- Thursday 21-Welt T ed situated on a comparatively low by seven in the mong walk them in comparison to me g spot of land, which shot out nearly breeze, and son plant w half across the loch, and formed the commavigation of the Sle harbour, where several vessels lay at which appeared ping anchor; beyond this the Summer Isles in the most wild and appeared, and closed the distance, fine group of wa finely enlightened by the setting sun; and extended w while on the bosom of the lake, which variety from Ap appeared tranquil, calm, and still, a Rea, their w number of boats were pleasings and t grouped in various parts, co their evening's emp! with lines and ne sations are m opinions are held as to its he most probable is, that it is ble production. Saussure w of a bright red colour on and Ramond a similar mate Pyrenees; further investiill doubtless determine its ly, in this age of chemical the primary object of the the ships proceeded to d all the land, and to visit ets in this extensive bay, prospect of an opening ctic sea appeared. Though y willing to render all the is due to the commander, 1 skill displayed in the maof the ships;-for the expline maintained on board; e propriety and accuracy cal observations ;-yet we old part of our tribute, > is so manifest an appearficiency and indecision in ed investigations into the kisting channels conducting ar sea. This conclusion is by the conflicting accounts appeared on this subject. espect to Whale Sound, in extremity of the Bay, Capt. erves, we could not apin a direct line on account of e wind then shifted to the d, and obliged us to stand the west" this is certainly actory. Sabine says, "Of Sound, we could just discern ening in the coast, it being 30 iles distant from us." 66 Smith's Sound it is observed by Ross, "It was distinctly seen, and apes forming each side of it, were ed after the two ships Isabella and xander. I considered the bottom this Sound to be about 18 leagues stant, but its entrance was cometely blocked up with ice." Sabine's ecount states, that " of the greatest and longest sound in all this bay, and which runneth to the north of 78°, we can say nothing, as our extreme north was 76° 53'." Another account by an officer says, "It appeared to many e very desirable, that we should have 0- approached somewhat nearer to Sir ich Thomas Smith's Sound, which prepth sented a very wide opening; but we Lovel passed it at the distance of 50 or 60 and it miles." Of Jones' Sound on the N.W. ut still side of the bay's extremity, lat. 76° 30', |