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THE

Imperial Magazine;

OR, COMPENDIUM OF RELIGIOUS, MORAL, & PHILOSOPHICAL KNOWLEDGE.

THE VALUE OF A BOOK IS TO BE ESTIMATED BY ITS use."

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO THE

HEBRIDES.

through the gloom, and, by the con

trast of its white sails, giving it a still [Continued from col. 198.]

greater effect.

The farther opening is called Loch Friday, 24th.–Left Fairley Roads Ridan. Its appearance is more vaat two in the afternoon, with a fine ried than the former: low broken rocks gale. As we get round the northern and wooded slopes are pleasingly point of Cambray, the Clyde assumes blended; these are overtopped by the appearance of a grand lake, being higher hills; and the first stretch of apparently land-locked on every side; the lake is terminated by a parallel some high hills in Argyleshire, and range of craggy rocks. those already noticed in Arran, over- At the entrance of the loch is a top all around with a degree of gran- small island, on which is the foundadeur and wildness.

tion of a square building, whose stones The Frith of Clyde is well adapted are cemented together by a substance, to the purposes of commerce; the which appears to have been vitrified channel in general being free from by some process subsequent to its erecsand-banks and sunken rocks. The tion. This, it seems, is not the only harbours are numerous; but those on building of the kind : a fort by the the south side are dangerous in west- side of Loch Ness, and some others, em gales, as the Argyleshire coast is having been formed by the same guarded by a long sand-bank, which means. They go by the general name forms a gradual shoal, to a consider- of vitrified forts. able distance from shore. Lamlash After passing the north-east extreBay, and Fairley Roads, are the best mity of Bute, the gale increased confor large vessels. In entering, the siderably, and we were compelled to Craig of Ailsa is an excellent directing- beat up a very narrow channel for mark to seamen, when homeward about two miles, when we cast anchor bound, from its great height and sin- in the evening at a part called Black gular situation, and from its generally Farland, on the side of Bute. remaining visible when the surround- These anchoring-places are numeing lands are buried in mists.

rous, and form a great conveniency to After crossing the Frith, we pass on the vessels that navigate these narrow the left the opening of Rothsay Bay, channels, when overtaken by those at the top of which the town is situ- sudden storms which are common in ated, and enter the Kyle, (a narrow these mountainous regions. channel, as the name signifies) between Saturday, 25th.-As the wind conthe island of Bute and the land of tinued boisterous and adverse, we reCowal. Two adjacent lochs branch off mained here during the day. In the into the latter. The first, Loch Strevin, morning we landed on the isle of Bute, from the dark solemnity of its appear- which, on this side, exhibits little else ance, cannot fail to attract the atten- than broken sterile rocks, and heathy tion of those, who, in similar weather, hills. The opposite coast of Cowal pass this channel. The mountains appeared, however, more fertile; and are wild and rocky, interspersed with was prettily interspersed with young patches of vegetation, which serve plantations of wood, which, however, only to break the uniformity of their it seems, are periodically visited by gray tints; and fall abruptly into the the axe, for the purpose of making loch. The gloom of clouds, and of charcoal. And thus the country bethose mists which generally, in their comes deprived of its chief ornament, absence, supply their place, gives it and is left naked and bare; while, by that air of dreary solitude, which a little attention, and a small drawis scarcely lessened by the appear- back on the profits of this application ance of a lonely vessel, stealing silently of their woods, the hills of Scotland No. 4.-VOL. I.

X

might, in a short time, rival the luxu-| tent of his domains, the reflecting mind riance of the more southern parts of naturally recurs to ancient times, this island.

when feudal power ruled the neighA small group of rocks formed a bouring districts with an iron hand, prominent feature, which, overhanging and when its consequence rendered it the margin of the water, was pleas- an object of terror, of envy, or of eningly decorated with trees and shrubs. terprise, to surrounding clans; and

Sunday, 26th.--At three in the morn- often has Inverary, in common with ing we set sail, and, after beating other residences of Highland chiefs, round the point of Ayr, in Cowal, en- experienced the devastating effects of tered the mouth of Loch Fine, with a predatory war. Its present state, howstrong but favourable gale. The day ever, yields a strong and pleasing conwas wet and gloomy, and the lake of trast with the preceding ; when, in of course appeared under great dis- place of this mischievous power, enadvantage. About noon we reached trusted to the caprice of an individual, Inverary. This castle, the seat of the haughty in his manners, and absolute Duke of Argyle, is finely situated at in his sway, we meet with a nobleman the head of the loch, adjacent to the residing placidly in the midst of his small river Ary, which runs through tenantry, listening to and relieving the grounds, and gives its name to the their wants, and giving them all the place; Inver signifying a mouth or advantage which can arise from the discharge of a river.

distribution of an income among those The barrenness of the distant sur- from whom it is drawn; a reflux, which rounding mountains, is finely contrast- becomes the cause as well as the effect ed by the luxuriance of the spot, of industry. which successful perseverance has In a picturesque view, Inverary has adorned with all the beauties of a certainly great claims to our notice: southern climate. In the midst of the form of the castle is grand, and these, the hill of Doniquaich forms a well adapted to the situation, and, prominent and grand feature; its rocky from the natural distribution of sursides clothed with wood nearly to the rounding eminences, which always summit, excepting where, here and form a fine back ground, it is hard to there, a projecting crag breaks through say in which point of view we should the foliage, and pleasingly diversifies most admire it. its appearance. The grounds are well The effects of contrast are well laid out, and the meandring Ary, after known, and this situation possesses losing itself among the thickly-cover- all the advantages which can arise ing woods, is discharged into the lake, from it: bounded by a country in gebeneath a handsome bridge of two neral mountainous and barren, through arches.

which the traveller' is compelled to To the hill of Doniquaich, the Duke make his approach, the beauties of has formed a carriage road, which, the place cannot fail to strike him in winding round its steep acclivities, at the most powerful manner. This takes length leads to the summit, where a place when we are prepared for it; but small building, in the form of a bea- how greatly superior must the effect con, crowns the whole.

be on one, who, wholly unacquainted From hence there is an extensive with it, should suddenly break upon a view down Loch Fine, which, in the full view of this scene: he would almost fishing season, when its surface is be inclined to believe the fictions of sprinkled over with herring busses romance, and fancy himself transportand other small craft, that then resorted to some distant region of a milder hither in great numbers, exhibits a and more genial climate. pleasing and an interesting spectacle. Monday, 27th.--In the morning we

On the land side, the view is cir- paid a visit to the castle, the interior of cumscribed by ranges of wild and which is adorned with all the splendour barren mountains, from whose sterile of the present age. The drawingaspects the eye sinks with pleasure room is particularly superb, and hung on the luxuriant woods of Inverary, with the Gobelines tapestry; the brilwhich appear doubly interesting from liancy of the tints, and the degree of the opposition.

perfection with which they are blended, In considering Inverary as the abode are well known, and deservedly adof a chicftain, powerful from the ex- mired. The other apartments are 309

Journal of a Voyage to the Hebrides.

310

large and magnificent, and the hall or nations, and often give rise to the most guard-chamber is hung with various sublime and wild effects. Instances of implements of war.

this, we had more than once already The Duke has now completed the experienced. design which had been formed by his Wednesday, 29th.-Left Otter by five predecessor, of removing the old vil- in the morning, but, as the calm wealage of Inverary. It formerly occu-ther still continued, we made but little pied a great part of the space between progress during the morning. We the castle and the lake, and, like most therefore took to the boat, and amused of the Highland villages, consisted of ourselves with fishing, and with our a number of miserable huts; but is usual success, taking about half a hunnow erected at a convenient distance, dred in a short space of time. on a handsome and an extensive plan. On the right, up Loch Gilp, we

Having amused ourselves in the observed the eastern end of the canal, grounds during the afternoon, we set now cutting across the promontory of sail about ten in the evening; but the Cantyre to Loch Crinan, a work which, faint breeze of which we had taken from the safe and short communicaadvantage soon died away, and a calm tion it will afford between the Western succeeded. Our progress was conse

Ocean and the Frith of Clyde, by cutquently slow, and we lost the view of ting off the circuitous and (to boats) but a small portion of the loch. the dangerous passage round the Mull

During the night our vessel passed of Cantyre, will doubtless contribute through a very large shoal of herrings, greatly to promote the commercial which were seen playing near the sur- advantages of Scotland, more parface for some hours, and exhibiting ticularly of the Fisheries; a branch colours of the most beautiful and vivid of commerce which, I hope I may appearance.

safely say, is yet in its infancy. . Tuesday, 28th.—A slight breeze car- To a nation engaged, as Great Briried us slowly down the loch, and it tain is, in widely-extended interwas evening when we reached the course both with the East and West, it point of Otter, where we cast anchor may perhaps not seem so wonderful, in a kind of bay, formed by that re- that this apparently trifling business markable sand-bank, which stretches should be overlooked or neglected. half way across the mouth of the lake, A. more lucrative, or at least a more and shelters the upper part from the splendid, traffic has absorbed all her turbulent billows of the lower reach. mercantile speculations and resources; Great quantities of fish resort to this and this mine of individual and nabank, of which we had a convincing tional wealth has been left almost unproof; our seamen having taken about tried by us. four dozen of fine codlings, in the The Dutch, a people proverbially short time we were on shore on a visit quick-sighted in whatever regarded to the Laird of Otter.

their interest, did not however, in Loch Fine, though in general it does their foreign connections, overlook not rank very high as to the beauties the advantages arising from this trade : of its scenery, has yet sufficient, in long have they continued to draw imparts, to claim our notice; and the mense wealth from it; and long did seats of several gentlemen, decorated they, from the produce of our own with young plantations, pleasingly di- seas, supply this nation with a part of versify the natural uniformity of its its provisions. appearance. The lower part extends When we take a view of the imto a broad expanse of water, in which mense number of vessels and of men we lose ideas of lake scenery: the which they have employed in these screens become remote, and conse- fisheries, our own inattention and inquently tame.

difference cannot fail to strike us more In this mountainous region we are, forcibly. however, seldom at a loss for some “ In the year 1618, the Dutch sent pleasing effect, when the landscape out 3000 ships, and 50,000 men, to fails in elegance of form, from light take herrings, and 9000 more ships to and shadow, mists, clouds, and bril- transport and sell the fish ; which, by liant gleams of sunshine, whose tints sea and land, employed 150,000, beblend, harmonize, or oppose each sides those first-mentioned.” other, in endless varieties and combi- The exertions of the Dutch at length

MEMOIR OF THE LEARNED ANNA

roused the languid spirit in our Go- for a whole year, be had not uttered a vernment. Some faint attempts were word, he suddenly heard the bells of made, and a bounty was granted to St. Patrick's, of which he was the the busses employed; but the former dean, ring in full peal, and asked were weak and ineffectual, the latter what it meant?. His friends, in rapirregularly and ill paid; and little good tures that he had recovered his speech, has hitherto arisen from it.

hastened to inform him, that it was in It is hoped, however, that Adminis- honour of his birth-day that these tration will yet turn its attention to signs of joy were taking place. “Ah!" this important branch of commerce, he exclaimed, “ all that is unavailing as well with a view of forming a nur

now:” and he returned to that silence sery of hardy and healthy seamen, as which death soon after confirmed. of general emolument to the nation.

In the afternoon, we passed the point of Skipness, and entered the sound of Killrannin. On the left we

MARIA A SCHURMAN. had another view of the Isle of Arran, rising in wild and craggy precipices,

[With a Portrait.] and exhibiting, in this view, few traces so long as genius and talents of the of vegetation.

most exalted order can command reSailing on, we soon opened Loch spect, the names of Lee and Crichton, Ramsay Bay, with the ruins of a small of whom we have given comprehencastle at its entrance. The mists sive memoirs in our preceding numwhich hung on the summits of the bers, will be mentioned by posterity interior rocks scarcely permitted us to with profound respect and distintake a view of their spiry and indented guished honour. Mr. Lee, as an forms, which rose with a degree of Oriental scholar, still continues to wildness uncommon even in this Alp- shine, like a star of the first magniine region.

tude; and as the lustre of Crichton's In the evening we saw a basking fame remains undiminished, notwithshark playing in the channel, its back standing the lapse of two centuries, fins rising above the surface like the we may fairly predict, that the history pointed sails of a boat; from which of their respective acquirements will circumstance they have obtained the be perused with pleasing astonishment name of the Sail-fish by the inhabit- by generations that are yet unborn. ants. We afterwards passed, on the To these celebrated names, we now right, the ruins of a Danish'fort or feel no hesitation in adding that of a castle, situated on the promontory of learned female, who has justly proCarradale; but the darkness prevent- cured for herself an illustrious station ed our having a perfect view of it. among those prodigies of genius and [To be continued.]

talent, which occasionally arise to illu-
minate the intellectual world.
ther the mental powers of woman were

created in a state of inferiority, to MAGAZINE,

those of man,” is a question which SIR,—The following interesting Anec has been much controverted. An imdote of the celebrated Dean of St. portant branch connected with it, Patrick's, will, I am persuaded, gra- employed for some time the pen of tify many of your intelligent and cu- this learned lady; but the following rious readers, as it relates a fact not memoir of her life, will furnish those generally known.

by whom it is still agitated with the

J. C. most satisfactory answer. It is related, that Swift felt a fore- This eminent woman was born either boding that his faculties would aban- at Cologne, or Utrecht, in 1606. Ata don him, and that, walking one day very early age her genius for science with a friend, he saw an oak, the head began to appear. At six years old she of which was withered, though the cut all kinds of figures out of paper, trunk and roots were yet in full with her scissars, without any pattern. vigour. “ It is thus I shall be,” said When eight, she painted flowers admiSwift ; and his melancholy prediction rably; and, when only ten years of was accomplished. When he had age, she learned the whole art of emfallen into such a state of stupor, that, I broidery in three hours. Afterwards

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Whe

TO THE EDITOR OF THE IMPERIAL

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