DEC. 1776.] KERGUELEN'S LAND VISITED. rents. The people having wrought hard the two preceding days, and nearly completed our water, which we filled from a brook at the left corner of the beach, I allowed them the 27th as a day of rest, to celebrate Christmas. Upon this indulgence, many of them went on shore, and made excursions, in different directions, into the country, which they found barren and desolate in the highest degree. In the evening, one of them brought to me a quart bottle which he had found, fastened with some wire to a projecting rock on the north side of the harbour. This bottle contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the following inscription: "Ludovico XV Galliarum 1733." From this inscription, it is clear that we were not the first Europeans who had been in this harbour. I supposed it to be left by Monsieur de Boisguehenneu, who went on shore in a boat on the 13th of February 1772, the same day that Monsieur de Kerguelen discovered this land. As a memorial of our having been in this harbour, I wrote on the other side of the parchment: 1 The (d), no doubt, is a contraction of the word Domino. The French Secretary of the Marine was then Monsieur de Boynes. 2 The bottle and inscription were really left nearly two years later, in January 1774, when Kerguelen, on his second voyage, by M. de Rochegude, one of his officers, took possession of the country, with all the requisite formalities, in the name of the King of France. As the French ships had arrived on the coast in December 1773, it was natural that the inscription should refer to that year rather than the following, as barring possible claims by rival navigators. "Naves Resolution et Discovery de Rege Magna Britanniæ, Decembris 1776." 555 I then put it again into a bottle, together with a silver twopenny piece of 1772; and having covered the mouth of the bottle with a leaden cap, I placed it, the next morning, in a pile of stones erected for the purpose, upon a little eminence on the north shore of the harbour, and near to the place where it was first found; in which position it cannot escape the notice of any European whom chance or design may bring into this port. Here I displayed the British flag, and named the place Christmas Harbour, from our having arrived in it on that festival. After I had finished this business of the inscription, I went in my boat round the harbour, and landed in several places, to examine what the shore afforded, and particularly to look for drift wood. For although the land here was totally destitute of trees, this might not be the case in other parts; and if there were any, the torrents would force some, or, at least, some branches, into the sea, which would afterward throw them upon the shores, as in all other countries where there is wood, and in many where there is none; but throughout the whole extent of the harbour I found not a single piece. In the afternoon, I went upon Cape St Louis, accompanied by Mr King, my second lieutenant. I was in hopes, from this elevation, to have had a view of the sea coast, and of the islands lying off it. But, when I got up, I found every distant object below me hid in a thick fog. The land on the same plain, or of a greater height, was visible enough, and appeared naked and desolate in the highest degree, except some hills to the southward, which were covered with snow. When I got on board, I found the launch hoisted in, the ships unmoored, and ready to put to sea; but our sailing was deferred till 5 o'clock the next morning, when we weighed anchor. CHAPTER V.1 BEING desirous of getting the length of Cape George, to be assured whether or no it was the most southerly point of the whole land, I continued to stretch to the south, under all the sail we could carry, till half-an-hour past 7 o'clock [December 30]; when, seeing no likelihood of accomplishing my design, as the wind had by this time shifted to WSW., the very direction in which we wanted to go, I took the advantage of the shifting of the wind, and stood away from the coast. At this time, Cape George bore S. 53° W., distant about seven leagues. A small island that lies off the pitch of the cape, was the only land we could see to the south of it; and we were further confirmed that there was no more in that quarter, by a SW. swell which we met as soon as we brought the cape to bear in this direction. But we have still a stronger proof that no part of this land can extend much, if at all, to the southward of Cape George; and that is, Captain Furneaux's track in February 1773, 1 This Chapter is almost entirely devoted to a minute account of Captain Cook's examination of the coast of Kerguelen's Land, and to Mr Anderson's observations on the natural products, the animals, the soil, &c., of that remote and unprofitable region. The present interest of these matters is so slight, that there is no loss in the omission of the Chapter, with the exception of a brief passage, in which Cook affirms the insularity of Kerguelen's Land, described at first by its discoverer as a magnificent continent. 2 So called by Captain Cook in honour of the King; it is placed by him in Latitude 49° 54' S., Longitude 70° 13′ E. after his separation from me during my late voyage. His log-book is now lying before me, and I find from it that he crossed the meridian of this land only about seventeen leagues to the southward of Cape George; a distance at which it may very well be seen in clear weather. This seems to have been the case when Captain Furneaux passed it. For his logbook makes no mention of fogs or hazy weather; on the contrary, it expressly tells us that, when in this situation, they had it in their power to make observations, both for latitude and longitude, on board his ship; so that, if this land extends farther south than Cape George, it would have been scarcely possible that he should have passed without seeing it. From these circumstances we are able to determine, within a very few miles, the quantity of latitude that this land occupies, which does not much exceed one degree and a quarter. As to its extent from east to west, that still remains undecided. We only know, that no part of it can reach so far to the west as the meridian of 65°; because, in 1773, under that meridian, I searched for it in vain. The French discoverers, with some reason, imagined Cape St Louis to be the projecting point of a southern continent. The English have since proved that no such continent exists; and that the land in question is an island of no great extent, which, from its sterility, I should, with great propriety, call the Island of Desolation, but that I would not rob Mon. sieur de Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name. 3 Kerguelen concurs with Captain Cook as to this. However, he tells us, that he has reason to believe that it is about 200 leagues in circuit; and that he was acquainted with about fourscore leagues of its coast. "J'en connois environs quatre-vingt lieues des cotes; et j'ai lieu de croire, qu'elle a environ deux cents lieues de circuit."-Note in Original Edition. • Cook's alternative title, amply JAN. 1777.] FROM KERGUELEN'S TO VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. CHAPTER VI. AFTER leaving Kerguelen's Land I steered E. by N., intending, in obedience to my instructions, to touch next at New Zealand, to recruit our water, to take in wood, and to make hay for the cattle. Their number by this time had been considerably diminished; two young bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and several of the goats having of late died while we were employed in exploring this desolate coast. Thus far [to Jan. 3] we had fresh gales from the W. and SW., and tolerably clear weather. But now the wind veered to the N., where it continued eight days, and was attended with a thick fog. During this time, we ran above 300 leagues in the dark. Now and then the weather would clear up, and give us a sight of the sun; but this happened very seldom, and was always of short continuance. On the 7th, I hoisted out a boat, and sent an order to Captain Clerke, appointing Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land, as our place of rendezvous, in case of separation before we arrived in the meridian of that land. But we were fortunate enough, amidst all this foggy weather, by frequently firing guns as signals, though we seldom saw each other, not to lose company. On the 12th, being in the Latitude of 48° 40′ S., Longitude 110° 26' E., the northerly winds ended in a calm; which, after a few hours, was succeeded by a wind from the southward. This, with rain, continued for twentyfour hours; when it freshened, and veered to the west and north-west, and brought on fair and clear weather. We continued our course to the eastward, without meeting with anything worthy of notice, till 4 o'clock in the morning of the 19th, when, in a sudden squall of wind, though the Discovery received no damage, our justified by all that he and Mr Anderson observed, is now commonly adopted in English maps. 557 fore-topmast went by the board, and carried the maintop-gallantmast with it. This occasioned some delay, as it took us up the whole day to clear the wreck, and to fit another topmast. The former was accomplished without losing any part of it, except a few fathoms of small rope. Not having a spare maintop-gallantmast on board, the foretop-gallantmast was converted into one for our immediate use. On the 24th, at 3 o'clock in the morning, we discovered the coast of Van Diemen's Land, bearing N. half W. At 6 o'clock in the afternoon we sounded, and found sixty fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and shells. Soon after we had sight of land the westerly winds left us, and were succeeded by variable light airs and alternate calms, till the 26th at noon. At that time a breeze sprung up and freshened at SE., which put it in my power to carry into execution the design I had upon due consideration formed, of carrying the ships into Adventure Bay, where I might expect to get a supply of wood and of grass for the cattle; of both which articles we should, as I now found, have been in great want, if I had waited till our arrival in New Zealand. We therefore stood for the bay, and anchored in it at 4 o'clock in the afternoon, in twelve fathoms water. Our distance from the nearest shore was about three quarters of a mile. As soon as we had anchored, I ordered the boats to be hoisted out. In one of them I went myself, to look for the most commodious place for furnishing ourselves with the necessary supplies; and Captain Clerke went in his boat upon the same service. Wood and water we found in plenty, and in situations convenient enough, especially the first. grass, of which we stood most in need, was scarce, and also very coarse. Necessity, however, obliged us to take such as we could get. Next morning early, I sent Lieutenant King to the east side of the bay with two parties, one to cut wood, and the other to cut grass, under the protection of the marines, whom I judged it prudent But of them had their hair and beards smeared with a red ointment; and some had their faces also painted with the same composition. They received every present we made to them without the least appearance of satisfaction. When some bread was given, as soon as they understood that it was to be eaten, they either returned it or threw it away, without even tasting it. They also refused some elephant fish, both raw and dressed, which we offered to them. But upon giving some birds to them, they did not return these, and easily made us comprehend that they were fond of such food. I had brought two pigs ashore, with a view to leave them in the woods. The instant these came within their reach, they seized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off immediately, with no other intention, as we could perceive, but to kill them. to land as a guard. For although, as yet, none of the natives had appeared, there could be no doubt that some were in our neighbourhood, as we had seen columns of smoke from the time of our approaching the coast; and some now was observed at no great distance up in the woods. I also sent the launch for water; and afterwards visited all the parties myself. In the evening, we drew the seine at the head of the bay, and, at one haul, caught a great quantity of fish. We should have got many more had not the net broken in drawing it ashore. Most of them were of that sort known to seamen by the name of elephant fish. After this every one repaired on board with what wood and grass we had cut, that we might be ready to sail whenever the wind should serve. This not happening next morning, the people were sent on shore again on the same duty as the day before. I also employed the carpenter, with part of his crew, to cut some spars for the use of the ship; and despatched Mr Roberts, one of the mates, in a small boat to survey the bay. Being desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one of our visitors carried in his hand, I made signs to them to show me, and so far succeeded, that one of them set up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the distance of about twenty yards. But we had little reason to commend his dexterity, for after repeated trials, he was still very wide from the object. Omai, to show them how much superior our weapons were to theirs, then fired his musket at it; which alarmed them so much, that notwithstanding all we could do or say, they ran instantly into the woods. One of them was so frightened, that he let drop an axe and two knives that had been given to him. From us, however, they went to the place where some of the Discovery's people were employed in taking water into their boat. The officer of that party, not knowing that they had paid us so friendly a visit, nor what their intent might be, fired a musket in the air, which sent them In the afternoon, we were agreeably surprised, at the place where we were cutting wood, with a visit from some of the natives-eight men and a boy. They approached us from the woods, without betraying any marks of fear, or rather with the greatest confidence imaginable; for none of them had any weapons, except one who held in his hand a stick about two feet long, and pointed at one end. They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments, unless we consider as such, and as a proof of their love of finery, some large punctures or ridges raised on different parts of their bodies, some in straight and others in curved lines. They were of the common stature, but rather slender. Their skin was black, and also their hair, which was as woolly as that of any native of Guinea; but they were not distinguished by remark-off with the greatest precipitation. ably thick lips, nor flat noses. On the contrary, their features were far from being disagreeable. They had pretty good eyes, and their teeth were tolerably even, but very dirty. Most Thus ended our first interview with the natives. Immediately after their final retreat, judging that their fears would prevent their remaining near enough to observe what was passing, JAN. 1777.] INTERVIEWS WITH THE NATIVES. I ordered two pigs, being a boar and sow, to be carried about a mile within the woods, at the head of the bay. I saw them left there, by the side of a fresh-water brook. A young bull and a cow, and some sheep and goats were also at first intended to have been left by me, as an additional present to Van Diemen's Land. But I soon laid aside all thoughts of this, from a persuasion that the natives, incapable of entering into my views of improving their country, would destroy them. If ever they should meet with the pigs, I have no doubt this will be their fate. But as that race of animals soon becomes wild, and is fond of the thickest cover of the woods, there is great probability of their being preserved. An open place must have been chosen for the accommodation of the other cattle; and in such a situation they could not possibly have remained concealed many days. The morning of the 29th was ushered in with a dead calm, which continued all day, and effectually prevented our sailing. I therefore sent a party over to the east point of the bay to cut grass, having been informed that some of a superior quality grew there. Another party, to cut wood, was ordered to go to the usual place, and I accompanied them myself. We had observed several of the natives this morning sauntering along the shore, which assured us, that though their consternation had made them leave us so abruptly the day before, they were convinced that we intended them no mischief, and were desirous of renewing the intercourse. It was natural that I should wish to be present on the occasion. We had not been long landed before about twenty of them, men and boys, joined us, without expressing the least sign of fear or distrust. There was one of this company conspicuously deformed, and who was not more distinguishable by the hump upon his back than by the drollery of his gestures and the seeming humour of his speeches, which he was very fond of exhibiting, as we supposed, for our entertainment. But, unfortunately, we could not under 559 stand him; the language spoken here being wholly unintelligible to us. It appeared to me to be different from that spoken by the inhabitants of the more northern parts of this country whom I met with in my first voyage, which is not extraordinary, since those we now saw, and those we then visited, differ in many other respects.1 Nor did they seem to be such miserable wretches as the natives whom Dampier mentions to have seen on its western coast. Some of our present group wore, loose round their necks, three or four folds of small cord made of the fur of some animal; and others of them had a narrow slip of the kangaroo skin tied round their ancles. I gave to each of them a string of beads and a medal, which I thought they received with some satisfaction. They seemed to set no value on iron or on iron tools. They were even ignorant of the use of fish-hooks, if we might judge from their manner of looking at some of ours which we showed to them. We cannot, however, suppose it to be possible that a people who inhabit a sea coast, and who seem to derive no part of their sustenance from the productions of the ground, should not be acquainted with some mode of catching fish, although we did not happen to see any of them thus employed, nor observe any canoe or vessel in which they could go upon the water. Though they absolutely rejected the sort of fish that we offered to them, it was evident that shell-fish, at least, made a part of their food, from the many heaps of mussel-shells we saw in different parts near the shore, and about some deserted habitations near the head of the bay. These were little sheds or hovels built of sticks and covered with bark. We could also perceive evident signs of their some 1 The most striking difference seemed to be with regard to the texture of the hair. The natives whom Captain Cook met with at Endeavour River in 1769 are said by him to have naturally long and black hair, though it be universally cropped short. 2 Ante, page 282. |
