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acquainted with the use of iron, which they called 'aouri,' a name which he supposed them to have learned from the English who had preceded him; but Captain Wallis observed that they were not wholly ignorant of that metal in his time, though he does not mention by what name they called it; for as soon as they were presented with iron nails, they began to sharpen them, while they took no such pains with pieces of brass and copper. Cook circumnavigated and surveyed the coasts of Otaheite, which he found to have a circumference of about thirty leagues; and after a stay of about three months he prepared to depart. In leaving the affectionate islanders, he remarks, that, allowing for their theft, they need not fear a comparison with any people on earth.' A native named Tupia, one of Oberea's ministers, and well instructed in all the learning of his countrymen, offered to accompany the English, and the proposal was readily accepted. The Otaheitans, it appeared, sometimes ventured 200 or 300 miles through the ocean in their open canoes; and Tupia had a vague knowledge of above eighty islands, the position of many of which he attempted to describe. He was well acquainted with the heavens; and, in every part of the subsequent voyage in the Endeavour, he was enabled to point out the direction of his native island.

"On leaving Otaheite, Cook visited the neighbouring islands of Ulietea, Borabora, Otahah, Huaheine, and Raiataia. Tupia related, that in the time of his grandfather a friendly ship had called at the last named island, and he also stated that a ship had been wrecked on a low island called Oanna. These ships were probably those of Admiral Roggewein's squadron, and Oanna may have been the Schadelyk or Pernicious Island of that navigator. At Huaheine, Cook contracted a friendship with Oree, the old chief of the island, from whom he experienced unremitting kindness, and to whom, at his departure, he gave, along with some valuable presents, a small bag containing

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coins and medals, and a pewter plate with an inscription, as a memorial of his visit to this part of the world. These gifts the old chief promised to keep in safety. The people of Borabora had invaded some of the islands in the neighbourhood, and with such success that they were looked upon as invincible, and were become objects of dread to the simple islanders. Tupia was anxious that the English should terrify those haughty conquerors, and exhibit their superiority by firing great guns at Borabora; and at length, to calm his importunity, a ball was fired towards the island when the ship was at least seven leagues distant from the shore. To the group of islands which Cook now quitted, he gave the collective name of the Society Islands.

"After sailing four days to the west and south-west, an island was discovered to which Tupia gave the name of Oheteroa. The natives crowded on the shore to resist the landing of the strangers. They were a handsome, vigorous people, and seemed far to excel the natives of the Society Islands in the beauty of their dress. The cloth was dyed in various patterns, and of several colours, though bright yellow seemed to predominate. Their robes being collected round their waist by a belt of red cloth, gave them a gay and warlike appearance. Some had caps made of the feathers of the tropic bird, while others wore small turbans of a very elegant appearance. Their canoes were well constructed, and, as well as the javelins, were carved in a manner highly creditable to their taste and ingenuity. But no anchorage could be found near the island; and as the natives seemed bent on hostility, our navigators gave up all thoughts of cultivating an acquaintance with thein, and pursued their voyage.

"On the 15th of August they sailed from Oheteroa, and in the beginning of October perceived, in the colour of the sea, in the weeds with which it was covered, and the birds which flew around them, unequivocal signs of the proximity of land. At length,

on the 6th of that month, land was distinctly seen stretching to a great extent in the horizon; several ranges of hills were distinguished rising one above another, and a chain of mountains of an enormous height terminated the picture in the rear. The general opinion was, that they had discovered the 'Terra Australia Incognita,' but it was soon perceived that this must be a part of New Zealand or Staaten Land, discovered by Abel Tasman in 1642. A party who went on shore in order to open an intercourse with the natives met with no success. They were fierce, and obstinately hostile; but it was discovered, to the surprise and pleasure of our navigators, that when Tupia spoke to them in his native language, he was perfectly understood. In a quarrel which ensued, one of them was killed, and his dress appeared, on examination, to correspond exactly with the drawing appended to Tasman's voyage. As it was found impossible to commence an amicable correspondence with them by gentle means, it was determined to resort to force, and, according to the method followed by the first Spanish navigators, to capture the Indians first, in order to have an opportunity of treating them with kindness. This plan of proceeding can hardly be justified upon principles of reason or morality, and it has never been attended with such unequivocal success as to palliate its demerits. Two canoes were seen entering the bay, and the ship's boats proceeded immediately to intercept them; in one, the natives escaped by paddling; but those in the other, which was a sailing canoe, finding it impossible to get off, boldly prepared for battle. Of seven Indians who were in the canoe, four were killed on the first discharge of musketry, and the other three, who were all young, immediately jumped overboard, and attempted to save themselves by swimming; they were, however, overtaken and picked up by the boat, though not without some difficulty. They expected to be put to death at once; but as the studious

kindness with which they were treated soon convinced them of their error, their consternation gave way to transports of joy. They conversed freely with Tupia; and after having been kept a day on board the ship, were again sent ashore.

"The account which the boys gave to their countrymen of their treatment on board the ship led to a correspondence, which did not, however, bear the appearance of confirmed friendship. The New Zealanders still maintained a fierce and independent carriage, and acted so little in concert, that the behaviour of different individuals was often of a totally opposite character; but their distrust could not be generally overcome, nor an intercourse established which was likely to prove safe and advantageous. An attempt was made by them to carry off Tayeto, Tupia's boy, and they nearly succeeded; but guns being fired at the canoe as it paddled off, the natives, in a moment of fear, let go their hold, and the boy leaped into the water. The New Zealanders made great exertions to secure their prize, but the ship's boats finally succeeded in picking up the youth, whose terror at the violent conduct of these savages was increased by the conviction which our navigators had obtained, that they were cannibals, and even that they regarded human flesh as a dainty.

"This bay, in which no provisions could be procured, was named Poverty Bay; and our voyagers, on leaving it, proceeded along the coast towards the north. They gave the name of Mercury Bay to the inlet in which they anchored while observing a transit of that planet over the sun. They were surprised to find that the natives, notwithstanding their ferocity, were not unacquainted with the art of cultivating the ground. They had gar dens, in which they reared gourds and several kinds of fruits. A decked canoe also was found on this shore, which indicated their proficiency in maritime affairs. Their heppahs' or hamlets were forts neatly constructed on elevated situations, defended by

1769.]

EXPLORATIONS ON NEW ZEALAND COAST.

lines and trenches, and accessible only by a steep and narrow entrance. They had no knowledge of iron when our voyagers first touched here, although iron sand was found in the beds of several streams. The women were thickly painted with oil and red ochre, and the men were tattooed after the usual fashion of the South Seas. They were strong and active, not deficient in intelligence, or in sentiments of generosity, notwithstanding the cruelty of disposition engendered by their habits of continual warfare. Tupia conversed much with their priests; and from the superiority of his knowledge and the variety of his superstitious lore, he was regarded by them with peculiar respect and veneration. "In prosecuting his examination of the coast towards the north, Cook entered a deep inlet terminating in a large river, which he explored to the distance of fourteen miles; from the magnitude of this river, and the general appearance of the country round it, he named it the Thames. The timber which grew here was of enormous size, trees being seen nearly twenty feet in girth six feet from the ground, and above eighty feet in height to the branches.

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south-east, and thus found that the land, the continuity of which he had not before suspected, was divided by a strait. Passing through this strait, to which geographers have unanimously given the name of its discoverer, he directed his course towards the north till he arrived near the point where his examination of this country had commenced. He then resumed his course to the south-east, and followed the coast of the southernmost of the two islands comprised under the name of New Zealand, returning again from the south to Queen Charlotte's Sound. The southern island, or, as the natives call it, Tavai Poenammoo, is a rugged country, with mountains of prodigious height, and covered with snow the greater part of the year. The inhabitants also, though not more fierce, are ruder than their northern neighbours. They differ likewise in dialect from the inhabitants of Eaheinomauwe, as the northern island is called, where, as the climate is more genial and the soil more luxuriant, the population is considerably greater, and the arts as well as the institutions of rude society much more advanced.

"Of the natives of New Zealand Having finished the examination Cook entertained a highly favourable of the north-western shore of New opinion, notwithstanding their canniZealand, Cook experienced such severe balism, of which he saw numerous ingales, though it was now midsummer contestable proofs. He could not colin these latitudes, that in five weeks lect from them any tradition respecting he did not advance above fifty leagues the arrival of Tasman on their shores; in his course along the western shore. but they heard of a country called He at length reached a secure and Ulimaroa, situated NW. by W., where capacious harbour, which he named the people ate hogs, and whence some Queen Charlotte's Sound. The country canoes seemed to have accidently arwas here taken possession of, and the rived in their country. The circumsound carefully surveyed. Wood, navigation of New Zealand was the water, and fish were in the greatest first grand discovery of Cook. When abundance, the natives friendly, and Tasman touched on that country, he plants of an anti-scorbutic quality imagined it to be a part of the great were gathered on the shore, which soon Terra Australis, or continent supposed restored the crew to perfect health. to extend to the South Pole. Our Here our voyagers were particularly navigator was satisfied with having struck with the exquisite warbling of disproved this supposition; and as the birds, which, like our nightin- the lateness of the season would not gales, sing only during the night. permit him to continue his researches "Onascending a height in the neigh-in higher latitudes, he determined to bourhood of the sound, Cook was surprised on descrying the sea to the

direct his course to the eastern coast of New Holland, respecting which

the learned world was still in total ignorance.

"He took leave of New Zealand on the 31st of March 1770, and in twenty days discovered the coast of New Holland, at no great distance from the point where the survey of Tasman had terminated. In proceeding to the north, an inlet was entered, in which the ship rode securely for some days. Inhabitants were seen, but, from their shyness and timidity, they could not be induced to approach the strangers; they seemed to be sunk in that brutal condition which is insensible even to the promptings of curiosity. From the variety of new plants collected here by the naturalists of the expedition, this inlet received the name of Botany Bay. No rivers were discovered by Cook in his voyage along this coast, which has since been found abundantly supplied with fine streams. The natives, wherever they were seen, manifested the same repugnance to the strangers, and the same indifference to the trinkets presented to them. Towards the north the country grew more hilly, and the navigation of the coast became more dangerous and intricate.

"No accident had yet occurred in a voyage of 2000 miles along a coast hitherto unexplored; but in Lat. 16° S., a high headland being in sight, which from the circumstance was afterwards named Cape Tribulation, the ship during the night struck on some coral rocks with so much force that there seemed imminent danger of her going to pieces. The planks which formed her sheathing were seen floating off, and the water rushed in with such impetuosity that, though all the pumps were manned, the leak could hardly be kept under. As day broke, land was descried eight leagues distant, without an island between to which the boats might convey the crew in case of the ship's foundering. The guns and all the stores that could be spared were thrown overboard, and preparations were made to heave the ship off the rocks, although it was thought probable that she would sink soon after. On the following night,

however, she was got afloat, and, to the surprise of all, it was found that the leakage did not increase. By constant exertion and cool perseverance the ship was navigated to a small harbour opportunely discovered on the coast-the only harbour, indeed, seen by our people during the whole voyage, which could have afforded them the same relief. On examining the injury done to the vessel, it was found that a large piece of the coral rock, having forced its way through the timbers, had remained fixed in the aperture; but for this providential circumstance the ship must have sunk the moment she was got off the reef.

"The cove in which our navigators found shelter is situated at the mouth of a small stream, to which was given the name of Endeavour River. Here the natives appeared rather more familiar, but they set little value on anything offered to them, except food. When some turtle, which they coveted, was refused them, they avenged the affront by setting fire to the long grass near the tents, an action which had nearly been attended with disagreeable consequences. Mr Banks and Dr Solander found here abundance of employment; almost everything connected with the animal and vegetable kingdoms being absolutely new. Our naturalists were particularly pleased with the animal called by the natives kangaroo. They saw several at a distance, but a long time elapsed before they could succeed in shooting one.

The ship being repaired, our voyagers left the harbour; and, after much patient labour and anxiety, at length gained the deep sea, having been three months entangled within the reefs. They now prosecuted their voyage to the north, flattering them. selves that the danger was gone by, when the wind abated, and the ship was found to be drifting fast towards the reefs which lined this coast nearly in its whole extent, and on which the great waves of the Southern Ocean break with a tremendous surf. Her destruction seemed inevitable, when a narrow channel through the reefs was

1770-2.]

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END OF FIRST VOYAGE.

descried at no great distance; and although the attempt was attended with great risk, yet the ship was steered to run through it. Having thus entered from necessity a second time within the reef, Cook resolved to persevere through all difficulties in following the coast lest he might lose the strait that separates New Holland from New Guinea, 'if,' as he doubtfully expresses it, such a strait there be.' He at length reached a point of land from which he could discern an open sea to the south-west, and was thus convinced that he had found the strait in question. He then landed, and in the name of his Sovereign took possession of the immense line of coast that he had discovered, to which he gave the name of New South Wales. The little island on which the ceremony was performed received the name of Possession Island.

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amination of the coasts of New Guinea. Our navigator, therefore, held his course for Batavia, where he wished to refit his vessel; but the noxious climate of this place proved more fatal to the men than all their preceding hardships-scarcely ten remained in a condition to do duty. Tupia and his poor boy Tayeto, who had been afflicted with the scurvy during the whole voyage, were among the first victims to the pestilential air of Batavia. The seeds of illness lingered in the ship long after she had left the place; and before her arrival at the Cape she had lost no less than thirty persons, among whom were Mr Green the astronomer, Dr Solander, and the surgeon; the life of Mr Banks also was for some time despaired of. On the 10th of June, land, which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by the same boy who had first seen New Zealand; and on the 12th, Cook came to an anchor in the Downs, having been employed two years and eleven

The crew of the Endeavour had suffered so much from sickness and fatigue that it was not deemed advisable to prolong the voyage by an ex-months in his voyage round the earth."

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE.

"THE first important discovery made by Cook was effected by the circumnavigation of New Zealand. When Tasman described that country, he supposed it to be a part of the great Terra Australis Incognita, extending probably across the southern Pacific Ocean; but Cook's voyage at once overturned this theory. An opinion, however, which has long existed, cannot be at once dispelled, although utterly groundless; and many still continued to believe in the existence of a southern continent, although Cook's discoveries had cut off the connection between their theory and the facts which hitherto had been adduced in its support. But to set the question of a southern continent completely at rest, another expedition was neces.

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sary; and the English Government, having now made the advancement of science the object of national exertions, resolved to continue their laudable researches. The King was partial to the scheme; and the Earl of Sandwich, who was at the head of the Admiralty, possessed a mind sufficiently liberal and comprehensive to second effectively the wishes of his Sovereign.

"Captain Cook was named at once as the fittest person to command the new expedition. Two ships, the Resolution and the Adventure, the former of 462, the latter of 336 tons burthen, were fitted out for the voyage; and, that no opportunity might be lost to science from the want of persons capable of observing nature under every aspect, astronomers and naturalists

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