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1769.]

DISTURBANCE WITH THE NATIVES.

485

the natives. Having marked out the | We had then straggled a little distance ground that we intended to occupy, a from each other, but Owhaw immedismall tent belonging to Mr Banks was ately called us together, and by waving set up, which had been brought on his hand, sent away every Indian who shore for that purpose; by this time followed us except three, each of whom, a great number of the people had as a pledge of peace on their part, and gathered about us, but, as it appeared, an entreaty that there might be peace only to look on, there not being a on ours, hastily broke a branch from single weapon of any kind among the trees, and came to us with it in them. I intimated, however, that their hands. As we had too much none of them were to come within the reason to fear that some mischief had line I had drawn, except one, who ap- happened, we hastened back to the peared to be a chief, and Owhaw. To tent, which was not distant above halfthese two persons I addressed myself a-mile; and when we came up, we by signs, and endeavoured to make found it entirely deserted, except by them understand that we wanted the our own people. ground which we had marked out to sleep upon for a certain number of nights, and that then we should go away. Whether I was understood, I cannot certainly determine; but the people behaved with a deference and respect that at once pleased and surprised us; they sat down peaceably without the circle, and looked on, without giving us any interruption, till we had done, which was upwards of two hours. As we had seen no poultry, and but two hogs, in our walk when we were last on shore at this place, we suspected that upon our arrival they had been driven farther up the country; and the rather, as Owhaw was very importunate with us, by signs, not to go into the woods, which, however, and partly for these reasons, we were determined to do. Having therefore appointed the thirteen marines and a petty officer to guard the tent, we set out, and a great number of the natives joined our party. As we were crossing a little river that lay in our way, we saw some ducks, and Mr Banks, as soon as he had got over, fired at them, and happened to kill three at one shot. This struck [the natives] with the utmost terror, so that most of them fell suddenly to the ground as if they also had been shot at the same discharge. It was not long, however, before they recovered from their fright, Upon questioning our people more and we continued our route; but we particularly, whose conduct they soon had not gone far before we were alarm-perceived we could not approve, they ed by the report of two pieces, which alleged that the sentinel whose musket were fired by the guard at the tent. was taken away, was violently assault

It appeared that one of the Indians who remained about the tent after we left it, had watched his opportunity, and, taking the sentry unawares, had snatched away his musket. Upon this the petty officer, a midshipman, who commanded the party-perhaps from a sudden fear of further violence, perhaps from the natural petulance of power newly acquired, and perhaps from a brutality in his nature-ordered the marines to fire. The men, with as little consideration or humanity as the officer, immediately discharged their pieces among the thickest of the flying crowd, consisting of more than a hundred; and, observing that the thief did not fall, pursued him and shot him dead. We afterwards learned that none of the others were either killed or wounded. Owhaw, who had never left us, observing that we were now totally deserted, got together a few of those who had fled, though not without some difficulty, and ranged them about us. We endeavoured to justify our people as well as we could, and to convince the Indians that if they did no wrong to us, we should do no wrong to them. They went away without any appearance of distrust or resentment; and having struck our tent, we returned to the ship, but by no means satisfied with the transactions of the day.

ed and thrown down, and that a push was afterwards made at him by the man who took the musket, before any command was given to fire. It was also suggested, that Owhaw had suspicions, at least, if not certain knowledge, that something would be attempted against our people at the tent, which made him so very earnest in his endeavours to prevent our leaving it. Others imputed his importunity to his desire that we should confine ourselves to the beach and it was remarked that neither Owhaw, nor the chiefs who remained with us after he had sent the rest of the people away, would have inferred the breach of peace from the firing at the tent, if they had had no reason to suspect that some injury had been offered by their countrymen; especially as Mr Banks had just fired at the ducks. And yet that they did infer a breach of peace from that incident, was manifest from their waving their hands for the people to disperse, and instantly pulling green branches from the trees. But what were the real circumstances of this unhappy affair, and whether either, and which of these conjectures were true, could never certainly be known.

The next morning but few of the natives were seen upon the beach, and not one of them came off to the ship. This convinced us that our endeavours to quiet their apprehensions had not been effectual; and we remarked with particular regret, that we were deserted even by Owhaw, who had hitherto been so constant in his attachment, and so active in renewing the peace that had been broken. Appearances being thus unfavourable, I warped the ship nearer to the shore, and moored her in such a manner as to command all the NE. part of the bay, particularly the place which I had inarked out for building a fort. In the evening, however, I went on shore with only a boat's crew, and some of the gentlemen. The natives gathered about us, but not in the same number as before. There were, I believe, between thirty and forty, and they trafficked with us for cocoa-nuts and

other fruit, to all appearance as friendly as ever.

On the 17th, early in the morning, we had the misfortune to lose Mr Buchan, the person whom Mr Banks had brought out as a painter of landscapes and figures. He was a sober, diligent, and ingenious young man, and greatly regretted by Mr Banks; who hoped, by his means, to have gratified his friends in England with representations of this country and its inhabitants, which no other person on board could delineate with the same accuracy and elegance. He had always been subject to epileptic fits, one of which seized him on the mountains of Tierra del Fuego; and this disorder being aggravated by a bilious complaint which he contracted on board the ship, at length put an end to his life. It was at first proposed to bury him on shore, but Mr Banks thinking that it might perhaps give offence to the natives, with whose customs we were then wholly unacquainted, we committed his body to the sea, with as much decency and solemnity as our circumstances and situation would admit.

In the forenoon of this day we received a visit from Tubourai Tamaide, and Tootahah, our chiefs, from the west: they brought with them, as emblems of peace, not branches of plantain, but two young trees, and would not venture on board till these had been received; having probably been alarmed by the mischief which had been done at the tent. Each of them also brought, as propitiatory gifts, some bread-fruit, and a hog ready dressed. This was a most acceptable present, as we perceived that hogs were not always to be got; and in return we gave to each of our noble benefactors a hatchet and a nail. In the evening we went on shore and set up a tent, in which Mr Green and myself spent the night, in order to observe an eclipse of the first satellite of Jupiter; but the weather becoming cloudy, we were disappointed.

On the 18th, at daybreak, I went on shore, with as many people as could possibly be spared from the

1769.]

ERECTION OF A FORT.

487

ship, and began to erect our fort. | leading him out of the line, signified While some were employed in throw- that he should accompany him into ing up entrenchments, others were the woods. Mr Banks readily conbusy in cutting pickets and fascines, sented, and having walked with him which the natives, who soon gathered about a quarter of a mile, they arrived round us as they had been used to do, at a kind of awning which he had were so far from hindering, that many already set up, and which seemed to of them voluntarily assisted us, bring- be his occasional habitation. Here ing the pickets and fascines from the he unfolded a bundle of his country wood where they had been cut, with cloth, and taking out two garments, great alacrity. We had, indeed, been one of red cloth, and the other of very so scrupulous of invading their pro- neat matting, he clothed Mr Banks perty, that we purchased every stake in them, and without any other cerewhich was used upon this occasion, mony immediately conducted him and cut down no tree till we had first back to the tent. His attendants obtained their consent. The soil soon after brought him some pork where we constructed our fort was and bread-fruit, which he ate, dipsandy, and this made it necessary to ping his meat into salt water instead strengthen the entrenchments with of sauce; after his meal he retired to wood; three sides were to be fortified Mr Banks's bed, and slept about an in this manner; the fourth was hour. In the afternoon, his wife bounded by a river, upon the banks Tomio brought to the tent a young of which I proposed to place a proper man about two-and-twenty years of number of water-casks. This day we age, of a very comely appearance, served pork to the ship's company for whom they both seemed to acknowthe first time, and the Indians brought ledge as their son, though we afterdown so much bread-fruit and cocoawards discovered that he was not so. nuts, that we found it necessary to In the evening, this young man and send away part of them unbought, another chief, who had also paid us and to acquaint them by signs, that a visit, went away to the westward, we should want no more for two days but Tubourai Tamaide and his wife to come. Everything was purchased returned to the awning in the skirts this day with beads; a single bead, of the wood. as big as a pea, being the purchase of five or six cocoa-nuts, and as many of the bread-fruit. Mr Banks's tent was got up before night within the works, and he slept on shore for the first time. Proper sentries were placed round it, but no Indian attempted to approach it the whole night.

The next morning, our friend Tubourai Tamaide made Mr Banks a visit at the tent, and brought with him not only his wife and family, but the roof of a house, and several materials for setting it up, with furniture and implements of various kinds, intending, as we understood him, to take up his residence in our neighbourhood. This instance of his confidence and good-will gave us great pleasure, and we determined to strengthen his attachment to us by every means in our power. Soon after his arrival he took Mr Banks by the hand, and

Our surgeon, Mr Monkhouse, having walked out this evening, reported that he had seen the body of the man who had been shot at the tents, which he said was wrapped in cloth, and placed on a kind of bier, supported by stakes, under a roof that seemed to have been set up for the purpose; that near it were deposited some instruments of war, and other things, which he would particularly have examined but for the stench of the body, which was intolerable. said, that he saw also two more sheds of the same kind, in one of which were the bones of a human body that had lain till they were quite dry. We discovered, afterwards, that this was the way in which they usually disposed of their dead.

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A kind of market now began to be kept just without the lines, and was plentifully supplied with everything

but pork.
Tubourai Tamaide was
our constant guest, imitating our
manners, even to the using of a knife
and fork, which he did very handily.
As my curiosity was excited by Mr
Monkhouse's account of the situation
of the man who had been shot, I took
an opportunity to go with some others
to see it. I found the shed under
which his body lay, close by the
house in which he resided when he
was alive, some others being not more
than ten yards distant; it was about
fifteen feet long, and eleven broad,
and of a proportionable height; one
end was wholly open, and the other
end, and the two sides, were partly
enclosed with a kind of wicker work.
The bier on which the corpse was
deposited was a frame of wood like
that in which the sea-beds, called
cots, are placed, with a matted bot-
tom, and supported by four posts, at
the height of about five feet from the
ground. The body was covered first
with a mat, and then with white
cloth; by the side of it lay a wooden
mace, one of their weapons of war,
and near the head of it, which lay
next to the close end of the shed, lay
two cocoa-nut shells, such as are some-
times used to carry water in; at the
other end a bunch of green leaves,
with some dried twigs, all tied to-
gether, were stuck in the ground, by
which lay a stone about as big as a
cocoa-nut. Near these lay one of the
young plantain trees, which are used
for emblems of peace, and close by it
a stone axe. At the open end of the
shed also hung, in several strings, a
great number of palm-nuts, and with-
out the shed was stuck upright in the
ground the stem of a plantain tree
about five feet high, upon the top of
which was placed a cocoa-nut shell
full of fresh water. Against the side
of one of the posts hung a small bag,
containing a few pieces of bread-fruit
ready roasted, which were not all put
in at the same time, for some of them |
were fresh; and others stale. I took
notice that several of the natives ob-
served us with a mixture of solicitude
and jealousy in their countenances,
and by their gestures expressed uneasi-

ness when we went near the body, standing themselves at a little distance while we were making our examination, and appearing to be pleased when we came away.

Our residence on shore would by no means have been disagreeable if we had not been incessantly tormented by the flies, which, among other mischief, made it almost impossible for Mr Parkinson, Mr Bank's natural history painter, to work; for they not only covered his subject so as that no part of its surface could be seen, but even ate the colour off the paper as fast as he could lay it on. We had recourse to mosquito-nets and flytraps, which, though they made the inconvenience tolerable, were very far from removing it.

On the 22d, Tootahah gave us a specimen of the music of this country: four persons performed upon flutes, which had only two stops, and therefore could not sound more than four notes by half tones. They were sounded like our German flutes, except that the performer, instead of applying it to his mouth, blew into it with one nostril, while he stopped the other with his thumb. To these instruments four other persons sung, and kept very good time; but only one tune was played during the whole concert.

Several of the natives brought us axes, which they had received from on board the Dolphin, to grind and repair; but among others there was one which became the subject of much speculation, as it appeared to be French. After much inquiry, we learned that a ship had been here between our arrival and the departure of the Dolphin, which we then conjectured to have been a Spaniard, but afterwards knew to have been the Boudeuse, commanded by M. de Bougainville.

On the 24th, Mr Banks and Dr Solander examined the country for several miles along the shore to the eastward. For about two miles it was flat and fertile; after that the hills stretched quite to the water's edge, and a little farther ran out into

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the sea, so that they were obliged to climb over them. These hills, which were barren, continued for about three miles more, and then terminated in a large plain, which was full of good houses, and people who appeared to live in great affluence. In this place there was a river, much more considerable than that at our fort, which issued from a deep and beautiful valley, and where our travellers crossed it, though at some distance from the sea, was near 100 yards wide. About a mile beyond this river the country became again barren, the rocks everywhere projecting into the sea, for which reason they resolved to return. Just as they had formed this resolution, one of the natives offered them refreshment, which they accepted. They found this man to be of a kind that has been described by various authors as mixed with many nations, but distinct from them all. His skin was of a dead white, without the least appearance of what is called complexion, though some parts of his body were in a small degree less white than others; his hair, eyebrows, and beard were as white as his skin; his eyes appeared as if they were blood shot, and he seemed to be very shortsighted. At their return they were met by Tubourai Tamaide and his women, who, at seeing them, felt a joy which not being able to express, they burst into tears, and wept some time before their passion could be restrained.

This evening Dr Solander lent his knife to one of these women, who neglected to return it, and the next morning Mr Banks's also was missing. Upon this occasion I must bear my testimony that the people of this country, of all ranks, men and women, are the arrantest thieves upon the face of the earth. The very day after we arrived here, when they came on board us, the chiefs were employed in stealing what they could in the cabin, and their dependants were no less industrious in other parts of the ship they snatched up everything that it was possible for them to secrete, till they got on shore, even to

489

the glass ports, two of which they carried off undetected. Tubourai Tamaide was the only one except Tootahah who had not been found guilty, and the presumption, arising from this circumstance, that he was exempt from a vice of which the whole nation besides were guilty, could not be supposed to outweigh strong appearances to the contrary. Mr Banks, therefore, though not without some reluctance, accused him of having stolen his knife. He solemnly and steadily denied that he knew anything of it; upon which Mr Banks made him understand that whoever had taken it, he was determined to have it returned. Upon this resolute declaration, one of the natives who was present produced a rag in which three knives were very carefully tied up. One was that which Dr Solander had lent to the woman, another was a table knife belonging to me, and the owner of the third was not known. With these the chief immediately set out in order to make restitution of them to their owners at the tents. Mr Banks remained with the women, who expressed great apprehensions that some mischief was designed against their lord. When he came to the tents, he restored one of the knives to Dr Solander and another to me, the third not being owned, and then began to search for Mr Banks's in all the places where he had ever seen it. After some time, one of Mr Banks's servants, understanding what he was about, immediately fetched his mas ter's knife, which it seems he had laid by the day before, and till now knew nothing of its having been missed. Tubourai Tamaide, upon this demonstration of his innocence, expressed the strongest emotions of mind, both in his looks and gestures; the tears started from his eyes, and he made signs with the knife, that, if he was ever guilty of such an action as had been imputed to him, he would submit to have his throat cut. then rushed out of the lines, and returned hastily to Mr Banks, with a countenance that severely reproached

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