| barbecues, or frames of sticks, raised about three feet from the ground. The 13th, when we turned out, the river had overflowed its banks, and was two feet deep in our huts, and our guides went from us, not telling us their intent, which made us think they were returned home again. Now we began to repent our haste in coming from the last settlements, for we had no food since we came from thence. Indeed we got macawberries in this place, wherewith we satisfied ourselves this day, though coarsely. The 14th, in the morning betimes, our guides came to us again, and, the waters being fallen within their bounds, they carried us to a tree that stood on the bank of the river, and told us if we could fell that tree across it, we might pass; if not, we could pass no farther. Therefore we set two of the best axemen that we had, who felled it exactly across the river, and the boughs just reached over; on this we passed very safe. We afterwards crossed another river three times, with much difficulty; and at 3 o'clock in the afternoon we came to an Indian settlement, where we met a drove of monkeys, and killed four of them, and stayed here all night; having marched this day six miles. Here we got plantains enough, and a kind reception of the Indian that lived here all alone, except one boy to wait on him. The 15th, when we set out, the kind Indian and his boy went with us in a canoe, and set us over such places as we could not ford, and being past those great rivers he returned back again, having helped us at least two miles. We marched afterwards five miles, and came to large plantain walks, where we took up our quarters that night; we there fed plentifully on plantains, both ripe and green, and had fair weather all the day and night. I think these were the largest plantain walks, and the biggest plantains that ever I saw; but no house [was] near them. We gathered what we pleased by our guides' orders. The 16th, we marched three miles, and came to a large settlement, where we abode all day. Not a man of us but wished the journey at an end: our feet being blistered, and our thighs stripped with wading through so many rivers; the way, being almost continually through rivers or pathless woods. In the afternoon five of us went to seek for game, and killed three monkeys, which we dressed for supper. Here we first began to have fair weather, which continued with us till we came to the North Seas. The 18th, we set out at 10 o'clock; and the Indians with five canoes carried us a league up a river, and when we landed, the kind Indians went with us and carried our burthens. We marched three miles farther, and then built our huts, having travelled from the last settlements six miles. The 19th, our guides lost their way, and we did not march above two miles. The 20th, by 12 o'clock, we came to Chepo River. The rivers we crossed hitherto, ran all into the South Seas; and this of Chepo was the last we met that ran that way. Here an old man who came from the last settlements distributed his burthen of plantains amongst us, and taking his leave returned home. Afterwards we forded the river and marched to the foot of a very high mountain, where we lay all night. This day we marched about nine miles. The 21st, some of the Indians returned back, and we marched up a very high mountain; being on the top, we went some miles on a ridge, and steep on both sides; then descended a little, and came to a fine spring, where we lay all night, having gone this day about nine miles; the weather still very fair and clear. The 22d, we marched over another very high mountain, keeping on the ridge, five miles. When we came to the north end, we to our great com. fort saw the sea; then we descended and parted ourselves into three companies, and lay by the side of a river, which was the first we met that runs into the North Sea. The 23d, we came through several large plantain walks, and at 10 o'clock came to an Indian habitation not far from the 1681.] ON BOARD A PRIVATEER. North Sea. Here we got canoes to carry us down the River Concepcion to the seaside; having gone this day about seven miles. We found a great many Indians at the mouth of this river. They had settled themselves here for the benefit of trade with the Privateers, and their commodities were yams, potatoes, plantains, sugarcanes, fowls, and eggs. These Indians told us that there had been a great many English and French ships here, which were all gone but one barcolongo, a French Privateer, that lay at La Sound's Key or Island. This island is about three leagues from the mouth of the River Concepeion, and is one of the Sambaloes, a range of islands reaching for about twenty leagues from Point Samballas 2 to Golden Island eastward. These islands or keys, as we call them, were first made the rendezvous of Privateers in the year 1679, being very convenient for careening, and had names given to some of them by the Captains of the Privateers; as this La Sound's Key particularly. Thus we finished our journey from the South Sea to the North in twentythree days; in which time, by my account, we travelled 110 miles, crossing some very high mountains; but our common march was in the valleys among deep and dangerous rivers. On the 24th of May, having lain one night at the river's mouth, we all went on board the Privateer who lay at La Sound's Key. It was a French vessel; Captain Tristian, commander. The first thing we did was to get such things as we could to gratify our Indian guides, for we were resolved to reward them to their hearts' content. This we did by giving them beads, knives, scissors, and lookingglasses, which we bought of the Privateer's crew; and half-a-dollar a man from each of us, which we A small, low, long, sharp-built vessel without a deck, going with oars and sails; Spanish, "barcalonga.' 2 Point San Blas, from which Dampier's title for the islands seems to be corrupted. 135 would have bestowed in goods also, but could not get any, the Privateer having no more toys. They were so well satisfied with these, that they returned with joy to their friends, and were very kind to our consorts whom we left behind; as Mr Wafer our Surgeon, and the rest of them told us, when they came to us some months afterwards, as shall be said hereafter. CHAPTER III. THE Privateer on board which we went being now cleaned, and our Indian guides satisfied and set ashore, we set sail in two days for Springer's Key, another of the Sambaloes Isles, about seven or eight leagues from La Sound's Key. Here lay eight sail of Privateers more, viz. : English commanders and English men. Captain Coxon, 10 guns, 100 men. Captain Payne, 10 guns, 100 men. Captain Wright, a barcolongo, 4 guns, 40 men. Captain Williams, a small barcolongo. Captain Yanky, a barcolongo, 4 guns, about 60 men, English, Dutch, and French; himself a Dutchman. French commanders and men. Captain Archembo, 8 guns, 40 men. Captain Tucker, 6 guns, 70 men. Captain Rose, a barcolongo. An hour before we came to the fleet, Captain Wright, who had been sent to the Chagres River, arrived at Springer's Key, with a large canoe or periago laden with flour, which he took there. Some of the prisoners belonging to the periago came from Panama not above six days before he took her, and told the news of our coming overland, and likewise related the condition and strength of Panama, which was the main thing they inquired after; for Captain Wright was sent thither purposely to get a prisoner that was able to inform them of the strength of that city, because these Privateers designed to join all their force, and by the assistance of the Indians (who had promised to be their guides) to march overland to Panama; and there is no other way of getting prisoners for that purpose but by absconding between Chagres and Porto Bello, because there are much goods brought that way from Panama, especially when the Armada lies at Porto Bello. All the commanders were aboard of Captain Wright when we came into the fleet, and were mighty inquisitive of the prisoners to know the truth of what they related concerning us. But as soon as they knew we were come, they immediately came aboard of Captain Tristian, being all overjoyed to see us; for Captain Coxon and many others had left us in the South Seas about twelve months since, and had never heard what became of us since that time. They inquired of us what we did there? how we lived? how far we had been? and what discoveries we made in those seas? After we had answered these general questions, they began to be more particular in examining us concerning our passage through the country from the South Seas. We related the whole matter, giving them an account of the fatigues of our march, and the inconveniences we suffered by the rains, and disheartened them quite from that design. Then they proposed several other places where such a party of men as were now got together might make a voyage; but the objections of some or other still hindered any proceeding. For the Privateers have an account of most towns within twenty leagues of the sea on all the coast from Trinidad down to La Vera Cruz, and are able to give a near guess of the strength and riches of them, for they make it their business to examine all prisoners that fall into their hands concerning the country, town, or city they belong to: whether born there, or how long they have known it? 1 Lying in ambush or concealment. how many families? whether most Spaniards? or whether the major part are not copper-coloured, as mulattoes, Mustesoes, or Indians? whether rich, and what their riches consist in? and what their chief manufactures? If fortified, how many great guns, and what number of small arms? whether it is possible to come undescried on them? how many look-outs or sentinels? for such the Spaniards always keep; how the look-outs are placed? whether possible to avoid the look-outs or take them? If any river or creek comes near it, or where the best landing? with innumerable other such questions, which their curiosity leads them to demand. And if they have had any former discourse of such places from other prisoners, they compare one with the other; then examine again, and inquire if he or any of them are capable to be guides to conduct a party of men thither; if not, where and how any prisoner may be taken that may do it; and from thence they afterwards lay their schemes to prosecute whatever design they take in hand. It was seven or eight days before any resolution was taken, yet consultations were held every day. The French seemed very forward to go to any town that the English could or would propose, because the Governor of Petit Goave (from whom the Privateers take commissions) had recommended a gentleman lately come from France to be General of the expedition, and sent word by Captain Tucker, with whom this gentleman came, that they should if possible make an attempt on some town before he returned again. The English, when they were in company with the French, seemed to approve of what the French said, but never looked on that General to be fit for the service in hand. At length it was concluded to go to a town called Coretaga, 2 2 Cartago, near San Jose, the present capital of Costa Rica; the "Carpenter's River" afterwards mentioned would be the Matina. 1681.] CAPTURE OF A SPANISH "TARTANE." which lies a great way in the country, but not such a tedious march as it would be from hence to Panama. Our way to it lay up Carpenter's River, which is about sixty leagues to the westward of Porto Bello. Our greatest obstruction in this design was our want of boats, therefore it was concluded to go with all our fleet to St Andreas,1 a small uninhabited island lying near the Isle of Providence, to the W. of it, in 13° 15′ N. Lat., and from Porto Bello NNW. about seventy leagues, where we should be but a little way from Carpenter's River. And besides, at this island we might build canoes, it being plentifully stored with large cedars for such a purpose; and for this reason the Jamaica-men come hither frequently to build sloops, cedar being very fit for building, and being to be had here at free cost, besides other wood. Jamaica is well stored with cedars of its own, chiefly among the Rocky Mountains; these also of St Andreas grow in stony ground, and are the largest that ever I knew or heard of, the bodies alone being ordinarily forty or fifty feet long, many sixty or seventy and upwards, and of a proportionable bigness. The Bermudas Isles are well stored with them; so is Virginia, which is generally a sandy soil. I saw none in the East Indies, nor in the South Sea coast, except on the Isthmus as I came over it. We reckon the periagoes and canoes that are made of cedar to be the best of any; they are nothing but the tree itself made hollow boat-wise, with a flat bottom, and the canoe generally sharp at both ends, the periago at one only, with the other end flat. But what is commonly said of cedar, that the worm will not touch it, is a mistake; for I have seen it very much worm-eaten. All things being thus concluded on, we sailed from hence, directing our course toward St Andreas. We kept 1 St Andrew's Island. 2 The Author afterwards (Chapter IX., page 221) tells us that he found large cedars at the Three Marias Islands, off the coast of Mexico. 137 company the first day, but at night it blew a hard gale at NE., and some of our ships bore away. The next day others were forced to leave us, and the second night we lost all our company. I was now belonging to Captain Archembo, for all the rest of the fleet were over-manned. Captain Archembo wanting men, we that came out of the South Seas must either sail with him or remain among the Indians. Indeed, we found no cause to dislike the Captain; but his French seamen were the saddest creatures that ever I was among; for though we had bad weather that required many hands aloft, yet the biggest part of them never stirred out of their hammocks but to eat or ease themselves. We made a shift to find the Island the fourth day, where we met Captain Wright, who came thither the day before, and had taken a Spanish tartane,3 wherein were thirty men, all well armed. She had four petereroes, and some long guns placed in a swivel on the gunwale. They fought an hour before they yielded. The news they related was, that they came from Carthagena in company of eleven armadilloes (which are small vessels of war) to seek for the fleet of Privateers lying in the Sambaloes; that they parted from the armadilloes two days before; that they were ordered to search the Sambaloes for us, and if they did not find us, then they were ordered to go to Porto Bello, and lie there till they had further intelligence of us; and he supposed these armadilloes to be now there. We that came overland out of the South Seas, being weary of living among the French, desired Captain Wright to fit up his prize the tartane, and make a man-of-war of 3 A small coasting vessel used in the Mediterranean, with one mast and a large lateen sail; Spanish, "tartana;" French, "tartane.' 4 Or pedereroes (Spanish, “pedrero," from "piedra," a stone); a sort of swivel-gun which, before the inven tion of iron balls, were loaded with stone shot. her for us, which he at first seemed to decline, because he was settled among the French on Hispaniola, and was very well beloved both by the Governor of Petit Goave, and all the gentry; and they would resent it ill that Captain Wright, who had no occasion of men, should be so unkind to Captain Archembo as to seduce his men from him; he being so meanly manned that he could hardly sail his ship with his Frenchmen. We told him we would no longer remain with Captain Archembo, but would go ashore there and build canoes to transport ourselves down to the Mosquitoes if he would not entertain us; for Privateers are not obliged to any ship, but free to go ashore where they please, or to go into any other ship that will entertain them, only paying for their provision. When Captain Wright saw our resolution, he agreed with us on condition we should be under his command as one ship's company, to which we unanimously consented. We stayed here about ten days to see if any more of our fleet would come to us; but there came no more of us to the island but three, Captain Wright, Captain Archembo, and Captain Tucker. Therefore we concluded the rest were bore away either for Boca del Toro or Blewfields River on the main; and we designed to seek them. We had fine weather while we lay here, only some tornadoes or thunder-showers. But in this Isle of St Andreas there being neither fish, fowl, nor deer, and it being therefore but an ordinary place for us who had but little provision, we sailed from hence again in quest of our scattered fleet, directing our course for some islands lying near the main, called by the Privateers the Corn Islands; being in hopes to get corn there. These islands I take to be the same which are generally called in the maps the Pearl Islands, lying about the lat. of 12° 10' N. Here we arrived the next day, and went ashore on one of them, but found none of the inhabitants, for there are but a few poor naked Indians that live here, who have been so often plundered by the Privateers. that they have but little provision; and when they see a sail they hide themselves, otherwise ships that come here would take them, and make slaves of them; and I have seen some of them that have been slaves. They are people of a mean stature, yet strong limbs; they are of a dark coppercolour, black hair, full round faces, small black eyes, their eye-brows hanging over their eyes, low foreheads, short thick noses, not high but flattish; full lips, and short chins. They have a fashion to cut holes in the lips of the boys when they are young, close to their chin, which they keep open with little pegs till they are fourteen or fifteen years old: then they wear beards in them made of turtle or tortoise shell. A little notch at the upper end they put in through the lip, where it remains between the teeth and the lip; the under part hangs down over their chin. This they commonly wear all day, and when they sleep they take it out. They have likewise holes bored in their ears, both men and women, when young; and by continual stretching them with great pegs, they grow to be as big as a milled five-shilling piece: herein they wear pieces of wood cut very round and smooth, so that their ear seems to be all wood, with a little skin about it. Another ornament the women use is about their legs, which they are very curious in; for from the infancy of the girls their mothers make fast a piece of cotton cloth about the small of their leg, from the ankle to the calf, very hard, which makes them have a very full calf: this the women wear to their dying day. Both men and women go naked, only a clout about their waists; yet they have but little feet though they go barefoot. Finding no provision here, we sailed towards Blewfields River, where we careened our tartane; and there Captain Archembo and Captain Tucker left us, and went towards Boca del Toro. This Blewfields River1 comes 1 Marked on some modern maps as the River Escondido or Segovia; it |