devotion to the Convent of St. Catharine procures among the Greeks. "Our walls," said he, "might be built of gold, were we in possession of all the gifts of our brethren which have been torn from us by the Arabs: before Mahomet Ali was upon the throne we suffered incredibly; many perished in their devotion to the interests of the convent. As we consider these in the light of martyrs, we preserve their bones in a chapel appropriated to the purpose.'

19th. The thermometer at sunrise was at 61° Fahrenheit. Our first care this morning was to make an agreement with some Arabs to take us to Gaza at 75 piastres per camel. The fears of robbery expressed by these men prevented us from fixing our route to Akaba. Their expectation of danger induced them to demand five dollars for each camel.

On the following day we breakfasted with the monks at the request of the Superior. We sat at a long table, near which was a pulpit; where one of the monks read during the repast. The diet consisted of vegetables and fish, and grace was said by the Superior; before drinking the wine he pronounced a blessing on that too; the meal was concluded as it began, with a thanksgiving. The Superior proceeded to an altar, taking some bread and wine, and distributed the same to all present; we then took coffee, and the Fathers separated to their several avocations.

CHAPTER IV.

DEPARTURE FROM THE CONVENT OF MOUNT SINAI- CHANGE IN THE CHARACTER OF THE ROCK-ASCENT TABLE-LAND ARRIVAL AT A WELL-DETENTION-MINERAL WATERSAND HILLS-WADY EL ARISH-KHAN YHOUNES-GAZA-OLIVE PLANTATIONS-FLEASVIEW OF BETHLEHEM VALLEY OF REPHAIM ARRIVAL AT JERUSALEM ARMENIAN CHURCH DECORATIONS AND WEALTH CHAPEL OF ST. JAMES POPULATION OF JERU SALEM - HOLY SEPULCHRE-REVERSES OF FORTUNE - CONFLAGRATION OF THE CHURCH, OCT. 12TH, 1808-MOUNT OF OLIVES - MIRACULOUS IMPRESSION OF OUR LORD'S FOOTOLIVE TREES-CHURCH OF ST. ANNE- THE DOLOROUS WAY-STREETS OF JERUSALEM— THE MAUGRABINS-JEWISH SYNAGOGUE-THE JEWS-LEGENDS OF THE MONKS.

HAVING said farewell to the hospitable Superior, at half past eleven we left this celebrated and interesting mountain; our road lying, for the first four hours, in the same direction as the approach; after which it turned to the north-east. We proceeded in this latter course until sunset, when we stopped in a Wady, commanding a fine view of Mount Sinai.* On the following morning, the thermometer being 51°, we proceeded down the Wady, still continuing to enjoy a magnificent prospect, to which was now added Mount Serbal. In about two hours and a half we reached a well, at which we remained till 1 P. M. Our path was now rendered somewhat more difficult by a mountain composed of sandstone, over which it lay; having descended this, we left behind us the granite which had been the principal component of the chain we were quitting. Within half an hour

"

* The word Sinai signifies, in Arabic, a mountain generally, and this mountain in particular. In that chapter of the Koran called the chapter of the fig, God swears by this mountain : By the fig, and the olive, and by Mount Sinai, and this territory of security," (viz., Mecca), &c. xcv chapter of the Koran.-D'Herbelot.

It is in the

of sunset we again rested; and the Arabs were employed in killing a sheep which we had purchased at the well.

On the 22nd we departed, as usual, about sunrise; the thermometer indicating a high temperature compared with that of the previous day, namely 66o. Proceeding under the shadow of the mountain, we entered a narrow defile, composed, on both sides, of sandstone, with alternate strata of flint. In two hours and a half we began to ascend the Djebal, during which the camels seemed to suffer much; as the anatomical character of the animal makes it inevitable, when taken from level and sandy plains. In about two hours we reached the summit, where we were repaid for the labour of the ascent by a striking prospect of Mount Serbal; Sinai, however, was not visible. I was agreeably surprised to find the descent on the other side by no means so steep as the face by which we had climbed; indeed, the top of this hill forms an extensive table-land. After repose, rendered unusually grateful by our previous fatigue, we proceeded along a level path, observing on the right hills of limestone, till half an hour after sunset, when we encamped for the night. The next morning set us in motion again at sunrise; when we passed a valley covered with low bushes, among which I observed a considerable number of partridges. Our route, changing a little, brought us into a dreary looking spot, where little verdure relieved the blank surface of the sandstone: here we arrived at the expected well, the water of which was good, though strongly impregnated with sulphur. At mid-day the thermometer was at 87°; we remained, in consequence of Mr. Catherwood being indisposed, for the remainder of the day at the well, in the shadow of a huge rock. On the 24th, our companion's indisposition continuing, we were compelled to remain stationary. The tedium of the day was a little enlivened by the bustle of forty camels, which came to drink at the well; they belonged to a neighbouring encampment of Arabs. I amused myself with shooting at the partridges, but my gun killed nothing for me but a brace of hours, as I found it diffi

cult to get near the birds. On the following day, Mr. Catherwood being sufficiently recovered to proceed, we continued our journey over an arid stony plain; after three hours of repose, we proceeded, passing the source of the Wady el Arish, after which we arrived at another well, which possessed the mineral taste so frequently observed in the waters of the Desert.

We quitted this spot at half past six on the following morning, the thermometer being at 62°, the sky cloudy, and a westerly wind blowing. The route this day was exceedingly unpleasant, from the white lime over which it passed.

Our Sheikh, Salami, procured some salt on the road, which was of remarkably fine quality-rested at mid-day for three hours-then proceeded till 7 P. M., when we pitched for the night. On the following morning we continued to travel on a plain; at ten o'clock we crossed the great Hadj road from Cairo to Mecca. After travelling for six hours, we rested; the thermometer being at mid-day 80°: at 3 P. M., we again set forward, the road continuing to be over a plain. On the 28th, we started this morning at six thermometer 60°-the road still level, but with mountains on the left: about 9 A. M. joined the road from Suez to Gaza-proceeded till four in the afternoon, being anxious to arrive at a well, our water being short. For the first time during several days we observed some Arabs upon the road: we soon reached the well, which we found to contain excellent rain water. On the 29th, our road soon brought us among hills of drifted sand, which must cause great discomfort, if not absolute danger, to the traveller in windy weather. In many places the sand covered the path; our Sheikh acted as pilot. I suffered extremely from the intense heat in this day's journey, which, as well as the labour of advancing, was increased much by the sand. We proceeded, ploughing our way through this sea of sand, (including a rest of two hours), until sunset, when we found a slight descent in the road, and also a considerable improvement

therein. We stopped for the night at half past seven, leaving Djebal Serbal to the south. On the 30th, our route this day continued over the same sandy plain till about 10 A. M., when we arrived at the Wady el Arish, where we found a well of bad water: here, too, we met a caravan bound for Suez. Tobacco seemed the principal merchandize with which it was charged. After leaving the well we entered a beautiful and fertile valley. On the 1st of October we departed from our resting-place at five o'clock; the wind was west, and the thermometer at 74°; our route crossed the smaller Wadys that join that of El Arish ;* we also met several caravans. During the night a shower of rain.

The rain, which was renewed on the morning of the 2nd, and which forced us to rest under the tent till seven o'clock, having in some measure abated, though not before it had drenched most of our baggage, we again set forward to reach Khan Yhounes, where we arrived at half past nine; it is a small and insignificant town, with a single mosque. We left this poor place after remaining half an hour, and proceeded along an excellent road towards Gaza, which is situated close to the sea, the distance being about three miles. After resting at mid-day for twenty minutes under the refreshing shade of a tree, we proceeded, and entered Gaza at half past three, taking up our quarters at a public Khan. Gaza,† the first town of any consequence on the road from Egypt, in Syria, is divided into two nearly equal parts, one of which is situated on a rising ground, with a mosque

* The town of El Arish (most probably the ancient Rhinocolura) was considered the last Egyptian town, and is still held by the Pacha of Egypt. The environs are cultivated, though vegetation has to contend with the sand. The distance from hence to Khan Younes is given by Ali Bey as eleven hours.

"According to the ancient system of warfare, it must have been a place of no inconsiderable strength. For two months it baffled all the efforts of Alexander the Great, who was repeatedly repulsed, and wounded in the siege, which he afterwards revenged in a most inhuman manner upon the person of its gallant defender, Bætis; whom, while yet alive, having caused his ankles to be bored, he dragged round the walls, tied to his chariot wheels, in the barbarous parade of imitating the less savage treatment of the corpse of Hector by Achilles."-Richardson's Travels, Vol. ii.