ICE HOUSES. 315 ICE HOUSES. readily evaporated. The form of the building may be varied according to A repository for ice during the sum-circumstances; but in the well or remer season. In America and other ceptacle for the ice, it is desirable to places ice is kept in deep cellars, from have sufficient room for the deposit which the external air is excluded as of two or three years' consumption, as much as possible, and provided with a provision against mild winters. drains to keep them dry. When the Where the situation is of a dry, chalky, surrounding soil is moist, a frame-work gravelly, or sandy kind, the pit may or case of carpentry is constructed, be entirely below the surface of the having a grating at bottom, and is so ground; in which case, an ice-house placed in the cellar as to be two or on the following plan may be advanta more feet distant from the floor, sides, geously introduced. and roof of the cellar. In this the Dig a pit of about twelve feet deep, ice is said to be as perfectly preserved and wide enough to permit the erecas in a dry cellar. Some market- tion therein of a frame of rough wood gardeners preserve ice in great heaps, posts. This frame is to be fourteen feet by merely building it upon an elevated wide each way at the bottom, and sixbase in an open garden, and covering teen feet each way at the top. The it over and around by a very thick stra- posts may be about nine inches in ditum of straw or reeds. This plan of ameter, placed near enough to each preserving ice is in accordance with other for thin laths to be nailed upon Mr. Cobbett's recommendation in his them, and the inside be dressed to an Cottage Economy, wherein he observes acute angle, so that as little wood as that "an ice-house should not be un- possible may touch the ice. On the inderground, nor shaded by trees, but be side let thin laths be nailed at about exposed to the sun and air;" that its two feet apart. On the outside, at bed should be three feet above the level moderate distances, nail rough boards, of the ground, and composed of some- and fill the place within with wheat or thing that will admit of the drippings rye straw set on end. The inside of flowing instantly off; and he adds, the roof to be made in the same way, that "with some poles and straw, a and also the gables. Straw is to be Virginian will construct an ice-house sewed on the inside, and heath or straw for ten dollars, worth a dozen of those on the outside of the door. The outwhich cost the man of taste in En- side of the roof is to be thickly thatchgland as many scores of pounds." ed with straw or heath; and heath, The ice-house built by the Virginians brushwood, or fir-tops, to be filled in consist of an inner shed, surrounded between the outside boarding and the by an outer one, and having a suffi- surrounding ground, and then neatly cient vacant space between the two to thatched or turfed over. The bottom enable a person to walk round; the of the house, for two feet deep, should walls and roofs of both the sheds are be laid with large logs or stone, next made of thatch, laid on about a foot with heath, fir-tops, or brush-wood, thick; and the ice is deposited in the and then with straw. The ice-house, inner shed on a bed of straw. In thus completed, will look like a square England and France, the common form beehive inverted, and is then ready to of ice-houses is that of an inverted cone, receive the ice or snow. But, unless or rather of a hen's egg, with the broad the house be in a very shady place, it end uppermost. The situation of an may be necessary to extend the roof, ice-house should be dry, as moisture has where the door is placed, five or six a tendency to dissolve the ice; it should feet, making a second gable and door, also be so elevated that water may finished in the same way as the first, freely run off. It should be exposed to and fill up the intervening space, exthe sun and air, not under the drip, or cept a passage, with heath or straw. in the shade of trees, in order that the external deposit of moisture may be Mode of filling the house.-When the ice (or snow, if ice cannot be pro cured,) is put into the house, it must be well beaten down with a pavior's ram mer, or mallet, and the surface always kept concave, as by this means any snow or ice that may melt will run to the middle, or interstices, and freeze. For the same reason, the ice ought to be kept concave when it is taken out for use. Should the frost be very intense when the ice-house is getting filled, it may be very beneficial at the close of each day's filling to throw in thirty or forty pails of water, which will fill the interstices and freeze upon the top thereof a foot thick of water. When ice is required for the use of the family, or when it is necessary to put in fresh meat to lie on the face of the ice for preservation, or to take out for use, the straw and carpet, or sail, is to be opened in the middle. Should rats infest the place, an iron-wire frame or case may be required to put the meat or fish, &c. into, when lying on the ice. A small open surface-drain ought to be dug round the house, to prevent any water running into it. Opening the door of the house does little harm. Damp or dense substances touching the ice are much more prejudicial than dry air. Dictionary of Mechanics. SOWING CLOVER SEED. CLOVER was introduced into this country from Germany, about eighty years since, and with it, the use of gypsum or plaster of Paris. These together the plant and its stimulanthad worked wonders in Flemish and English agriculture, yet it was long before they became generally known and valued here. It is now, however, almost universally grown for hay and pasture, and for plowing as a green manure, wherever the wheat crop is the staple product. Several varieties, known as the large, small, and me dium kinds, are cultivated, but in this section the latter prevails most extensively, and is thought on the whole to be the most valuable. As to the quality of the seed great care should be taken that only good, pure seed be sown. Foul weeds-the red root, daisy and others have sometimes been disseminated in seed brought from distant localities over neighborhoods befor free from these pests of the farmer. As to the quantity of the seed proper to be sown, great economy has been practised-an economy which has resulted in great loss to the farmer. To save five dollars worth of seed they have lost twenty dollars in hay and pasturage. In England, from onethird to one-fourth of a bushel is sown per acre, and when several varieties are mixed for permanent meadow of pasture, the whole amount used is often from two to three bushels. Wher● the soil is rich, less seed is required, as is the case with all grains and grasses. Arthur Young, an eminent English farmer, who tried many experiments to determine this question, says, "Of Clover, up to one-third of a bushel, the more seed the better." A correspondent of the Albany Cultivator, by way of experiment, and to show the advantages of a good supply of seed, sowed in the spring of 1850, a piece of ground in grass at the rate of one bushel of seed to the acre, or half a bushel of Clover and the same quantity of Timothy. In less than two months the field afforded a prodig. ious amount of pasturage, full twice as much through the season, by estimate, as ordinary good pastures. The next year the grass was allowed to grow for hay, and the product, cut early in July, was three and a half tons per acre. The soil was of ordinary fertility only, and would not probably have yielded more than twenty-five bushels of corn per acre. The amount of pasturage afforded by the second growth of this field fully warranted the belief, that a ton and a half per acre might have been again cut, making five tons of hay per acre in all, for a single year. There can be no question of the utility of increasing the quantity of seed above the present stinted amount, even if we do not reach the liberal estimates above quoted. The amount sown should certainly be sufficient to give the ground a covering of the grasses the first season of its growth, and not TRANSPLANTING FRUIT TREES. only the hay but the pasturage will be of much better quality than where the stalks stand but thinly. In relation to the time of seeding wheat fields to Clover, &c., there is here but little variation in practice. Spring is conceded to be the best season, and most farmers strive to perform the work during the stay of some of the light snows which usually occur, as the seed can then be more evenly distributed than upon the bare surface. Perhaps the best period for sowing is when the frozen ground begins to thaw, and, drying at the top, opens numerous small cracks into which a portion of the seed will fall and be covered by the subsequent expansion of the soil. But the use of a light harrow is still better security for the growth of the seed, and the performance of the young plants, and will not injure the wheat in the least, proving on the contrary a benefit. 317 TRANSPLANTING FRUIT TREES. As Spring is the season of the year when most persons interested in such matters will wish to provide for the comfort of their own future years, and perhaps for the health and happiness of future generations, by placing in their grounds choice varieties of fruit trees, it may not be amiss to call attention to a few important facts relative to the mode of transplanting. The first thing, of course, is, to make a judicious selection of the kinds of fruit most highly esteemed. And here care should be taken, to select from the catalogues of nurserymen who can be relied upon. The cost of trees of suitable size for transplanting, is nothing in comparison with the disappointment which will be experienced if the labels turn out to be incorrect. Hence it would be preferable to pay fifty per cent. more for trees, to a nurseryman of established reputation, than to procure them of one who is known to be careless, or ignorant of his business, at a much lower rate. The growth of Clover is much in creased, and the certainty of its "catching," in a measure insured, by a top-dressing of from one to three bushels of Gypsum, per acre, in May Another point to be attended to, is to or earlier. The practice has come to obtain trees from a nursery where the be generally followed, and many of soil is at least similar to that of the our farmers have already secured the place to which they are to be transferred. requisite supply for this purpose. The This is of great importance, if not abvalue of Gypsum as an ameliorator and solutely essential to success. It can fertilizer of the soil has become a hardly be supposed that trees, of any "fixed fact," however much theorists kind, taken from a stiff clay soil, will may discuss the rationale of its action. thrive well on a light sandy, or gravel. The analysis of the Clover-plant gives ly soil. Nor will it do to remove trees one very good reason for its affinity for from a light soil to one of a decidedly Gypsum. In 100 parts of the ashes of different character. Nurseymen, from this plant there are of the salts of pota regard to their own credit, if from no ash and soda 39.20; of salts of magnesia and lime 60.00; and of silicia 4.90. The constituent parts of Gypsum contain a large amount of these ele .ments. Rural New Yorker. If your flat-irons are rough, or smoky, lay a little fine salt on a flat surface, and rub them well; it will prevent them from sticking to anything starched, and make them smooth. higher consideration, should, before supplying their customers with trees, inquire as to the nature of the soil to which they are to be removed, and its condition. And we should almost as soon expect to see the natural productions of the tropics doing well in this latitude, as to find fruit trees flourishing where the above condition is disregarded. Seeing to it that trees are healthy in appearance, and have sufficient roots, the next thing to be done is to set them out properly. And here common sense, and sound judgment, are to be put in requisition. Be careful not to set your trees too deep, and just as careful to set them deep enough. The ground should be thoroughly cultivated, and sufficiently manured for a crop of corn. Manure of any kind brought into immediate contact with the roots of young trees will be as likely to injure, as to benefit them. And it is of the first importance, that fine earth be sprinkled,'or sifted in, among the smaller or fibrous portions of the roots, that they may have a chance to derive the requisite amount of sustenance from the soil of their new home. And we beg leave to say, that, in order to "avoid the appearance of evil," due regard should be paid to setting out trees in strait lines for nothing betrays the sloven, sooner than a disregard of order in the arrangement of an orchard, or a garden. A line of ample length, as a guide in such under takings, is as necessary, almost, as the spade and the hoe. Trees should be set not less than sixteen or twenty feet apart-the latter distance is none too great for apple-trees, and in rows so as to present a pleasing aspect, when viewed from any point. These common-place hints are thrown out, not for the enlightenment of the experienced, but for the benefit of those who are just entering upon the delightful employment of fruit-growing. A few words to the wise will be sufficient. CULTIVATION OF GRAPES. We will suppose you are about to form a trellis that you set your plants and erected your frame last year, and you now wish to commence trimming and training. Cut the vines down to three good buds-no more-if you want vines, let them grow. If you want grapes, cut away the vines. The two most thrifty shoots of the three buds, you will permit to grow. When two are well established, cut away the third and train the other two along the lower wire, (wire is better than strips of wood,) in opposite directions. If you are cultivating vines in a field or large plat, it will be well to plant po tatoes between the rows; at any rate, SECOND YEAR'S MANAGEMENT.—ÅS soon in the spring as the weather will permit, make the ground mellow with spade or cultivator, adding manure if necessary. Recollect the ground must be rich and mellow, and well drained to grow vines. Don't think because you see vines sometimes growing in swamps, that you can cultivate grapes in similar land. We know a gentleman who planted cuttings in the green sward by the side of a hard-trodden path, and erected a trellis frame, and afterwards complained to us that the vines would not grow. We were not astonished. What we termed shoots last year, will be main branches this, which will produce fruit upon new shoots. You may select four shoots to train upon the upper wires this season, and rub off all others every two or three weeks. Don't disturb the vines while in blossom, but when the fruit is as big as peas, you may probably cut off one half of the branches, and get more pounds of grapes and much bet ter than you would from the whole. Pinch off the ends of the fruit-bearing branches, and clip the leaves, so as to admit the sun and air. Keep the ground free from weeds, and frequently fork it up, or if the size of your vineyard will admit, put in the cultivator or horse harrow, but never work deep. THE THIRD YEAR.-On the opening of spring, go over the vines carefully, and cut every branch that produced fruit last year, down to one bud for this year. Don't spare the knife if you want a good vine and good grapes. Manage the bunches, shoots and leaves, as directed last year. Train shoots upon other wires if required, until the whole are filled. In succeeding years, keep your vines well trimmed as directed. Some prune in the fall, but spring is better. Just before vegetation starts, is the right time in any latitude where the seasons are marked by the great divisions of SHEEP MANAGEMENT.-WASHING SPRING WHEAT.-VALUABLE RECEIPTS. summer and winter. Too late pruning bleeds the wood, and injures the growth. Remember it is the new wood only that bears fruit. Whenever any main branch fails, or shows symptoms of unfruitfulness, prepare and train a new one in its place. Whoever will follow these simple rules may have grapes of his own in all the simplicity of perfection. The Plow. SHEEP MANAGEMENT.-Having paid some attention to managing sheep, during the last fifteen years, I propose to throw out a few hints on what I consider the best mode of managing that useful animal. WASHING SPRING WHEAT.-A correspondent of the Genesee Farmer, pursues the following method of freeing wheat for sowing of oats and other seeds: He puts three pecks of wheat in a wash-tub, fills it with water, and after stirring removes the oats and such other seeds as rise to the surface. The oats that will not float are removed by stirring the whole round rapidly by means of a paddle in a circular motion, which throws the oats towards the middle into a heap, when they are removed and the process is repeated till the whole is clean. WIRE WORMS.-According to a statement in the Prarie Farmer, salt is not agreeable to this larva. Land infested by thousands was sown in the fall with refuse salt at the rate of three and a half bushels per acre.-The next summer very few were seen, and afterwards all gradually disappeared; it is worth trying, at least, although the proportion of salt when dissolved in the soil would be only about one fiftythousandth part. Sheep should be kept on elevated, dry pasture, and when it can be done, a piece of wood land should be included in the pasture for the comfort of sheep during the heat of summer. To be successful in raising lambs, they should never come before the middle or latter part of April. They will then thrive without nursing. I never suffer sheep to have lambs before they are two years old. About the 1st of September, lambs should be separated TO FATTEN POULTRY.-Shut them from the flock and put into an early-up in the dark-give them a little light mowed meadow. This will be benefi- two or three times a day, long enough cial both to ewes and lambs; by so do- to fill themselves with food, and then ing ewes will have time to improve shut them up quite dark, and keep them their condition and aid them in pass there ten or twelve days, at farthest. ing the winter months free from dis ease. In curing hay for sheep, I have put it up rather green, and have generally used a peck of salt for each ton, which saves the trouble of salting in other modes. My uniform practice has been to deposit hay for sheep in small barns, placed on the highest parts of the meadow, with a shed at one corner to shelter them during severe storms. No other stock should ever be fed with sheep; if they are, it exposes sheep to injury and loss of wool. In pursuing this course I have been very successful in raising sheep, seldom having lost a sheep or lamb, or even a lock of wool. J. D. Crawford Democrat. VALUABLE RECEIPT.-Take plaster of Paris and soak it in a saturated solution of alum, then bake the two in an oven, the same as gypsum is baked to make it plaster of Paris, after which they are ground to powder. It is then used as wanted, being mixed up with water like plaster, and applied. It sets into a very hard composition, capable of taking a very high polish. It may be mixed with various coloring materi als to produce a cement of any color capable of imitating marble. This is a very rare recipe and is worth twenty dollars to many of our subscribers, any of whom can prepare it for them. selves. Sientific American. |